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Post by Admin on Sept 14, 2018 20:05:44 GMT
I bought the 100 W panel and 30 A controller to make a portable battery charging option for my travel trailer. I plan to only connect the battery and solar panel to the controller. But, I have a question .. the controller manual talks about selecting the correct battery type but it does not tell me how to select the battery that I intend to connect to it. I have two 6v golf cart batteries wired in series to make 12 volts. How do I tell the controller that I have a 12 v battery (instead of a 24 v battery)? Am I missing something? Our current Charge Controller has Automatic detection, that’s why the first connection you make is connecting the charge controller to the battery. The charge controller will detect the voltage level and display a solid Green LED if voltage level is in the right range. The charge controller works with Lead Acid batteries, including AGM and Flooded. Here is a link to our most current manuals: www.renogy-store.com/Downloads-and-Guides-s/1909.htmHi, I have the 30 amp charge controller hooked up to a 100 watt panel of yours and a costco 115 amp hour deep cycle battery with a whistler 1600 watt continuous inverter. My question is, when the solar panel is charging the battery the green light stays solid, then, its starts to flash after a while when no power is being used. Does this mean the battery is at full charge capacity and the controller has cut off the charge from the solar panel? Will it automatically make sure the battery does not over charge and over heat or explode? This is my first solar generator station I put together for charging up cordless tools and running led lights at night for work station lighting and camping. Thanks for your time. So far I love your products! They seem to be built solid. My question is, when the solar panel is charging the battery the green light stays solid, then, its starts to flash after a while when no power is being used. Does this mean the battery is at full charge capacity and the controller has cut off the charge from the solar panel? Will it automatically make sure the battery does not over charge and over heat or explode? I don't work for Renogy, but since I have almost the same setup as you (and electronic/electrical experience), I think I can help you with your questions. The flashing green battery light indicates that the battery level is full (as indicated in the manual). However, it does not mean that the controller has cut off current completely from the battery. But not to worry: The controller's job is to charge the battery until it's full and then keep it full without over charging it (and making it go boom!). To do so, the controller applies the proper current to fill the battery and then reduces the current output from the solar panels to a trickle charge. Storage batteries self-discharge over time and require a trickle charge to remain fully charged. In addition, if you draw power from the battery, the charge controller automatically increases the current from the solar panel to compensate AND maintain the trickle charge to the battery. I was concerned about all this too. So, I took a few precautions that you might consider too. First, I purchased two inexpensive meters (GT Power RC LCD 130A High Precision Watt Meter and Power Analyzers) and placed them between the controller and battery/battery and inverter. That way I could see what's going in and what's going out of the battery at all times. Based on this, I could keep track of what the controller was applying to the battery and assure myself that all was working properly. The other thing I did was to watch the battery temperature with a thermometer. So far, the battery has remained at room temperature at all times. Hope all that helps. If you have any other questions, I'd be happy to try and answer them for you. We have lost our manual to our 30 amp PWM Charge Controller and it seems that it is having issues. I would like to know if a manual is available online with trouble shooting to see if we can fix it. We have lost our manual to our 30 amp PWM Charge Controller and it seems that it is having issues. I would like to know if a manual is available online with trouble shooting to see if we can fix it. Here's the page on Renogy's website with all their manuals and other downloads: Renogy DownloadsI have a question, but don't see anywhere to ask it. All I see is "post quick reply". Can someone help? First you have to ask the question I'm easily confused. I didn't know I should ask my question in a "reply" box. Anyway here goes.. I have 2 Renogy 100 watt solar panels flat mounted on my motor home. 19.9 volts from panels to charge controller with a 30 amp inline fuse between panels and CC. Charge controller is a 30 amp PWM. My question is.....the panels can produce up to 5.62 amps each, but are now only producing between 2-4 amps in mid day full sun. Any suggestions on what can be done short of getting on the roof? The volts coming from the panels seem OK, but the amps are way low. Up until a few days ago I was getting between 9-10 amps. Panels are in parallel. When I remove the inline fuse my amp meter will read the same as the CC. What are you charging? What is your battery bank, you say up until a few days ago, does that mean they (the batteries) have been charging ever sense, if so, perhaps the batteries ae at full charge and the controller has cut back, which would indeed show lower amps. I have 2 Renogy 100 watt solar panels flat mounted on my motor home. 19.9 volts from panels to charge controller Is 19.9v what the controller displays? Is so the controller is in PWM and limiting current so as to not overcharge. Our current Charge Controller has Automatic detection, that’s why the first connection you make is connecting the charge controller to the battery. The charge controller will detect the voltage level and display a solid Green LED if voltage level is in the right range. The charge controller works with Lead Acid batteries, including AGM and Flooded. Here is a link to our most current manuals: www.renogy-store.com/Downloads-and-Guides-s/1909.htmHow do connect the battery first with a suitcase model? the panel is already connected to the controller.
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Post by Admin on Sept 14, 2018 20:08:12 GMT
I'm easily confused. I didn't know I should ask my question in a "reply" box. Anyway here goes.. I have 2 Renogy 100 watt solar panels flat mounted on my motor home. 19.9 volts from panels to charge controller with a 30 amp inline fuse between panels and CC. Charge controller is a 30 amp PWM. My question is.....the panels can produce up to 5.62 amps each, but are now only producing between 2-4 amps in mid day full sun. Any suggestions on what can be done short of getting on the roof? The volts coming from the panels seem OK, but the amps are way low. Up until a few days ago I was getting between 9-10 amps. Panels are in parallel. When I remove the inline fuse my amp meter will read the same as the CC. Do you know how to read the short circuit current of the panels? My PV indicator light is solid (no flashing) and does not seem to be charging the battery. Battery Voltage has not changed in past 2 days (12.4 volts). Should the PV indicator flash normally when charging ? My PV indicator light is solid (no flashing) and does not seem to be charging the battery. Battery Voltage has not changed in past 2 days (12.4 volts). Should the PV indicator flash normally when charging ? Which version of the 30A controller are you using? Renogy has offered several versions. With my controller, I have three lights: One for the solar panels (PV), one for the battery, and one for the switchable load terminals. The PV light is green when the panels are connected and receiving light. At nighttime, the PV light goes out. The battery light on my controller is really what tells me what's going on. It's solid green when charging and blinks when the battery is full. I have a question on the settings of my 30 amp PWM charge controller. The manual Load Controll Options, I have no idea if I need to worry about this or if the system will automatically set itself. I am just using it for camping in our travel trailer and want to keep it simple. We have 2 batteries and one 100 watt solar panel, I am wanting to have it charge my batteries. ignore the load setting and don't use the load terminals. I use mine for landscape lights for 3 hrs a night. camping I wouldn't use them at all, panel to controller to battery. all loads would operate off the batt. I have 100W Renogy solar panel and the Wanderer 30 Charge Controller. I installed the CC this weekend. I connected the battery only. The Battery and Battery selection LEDs both come on green. When I press the battery selection button for at least 7 seconds, the LEDs never flash and I can't select the correct battery type. No matter how long I press the selection button, the LEDs never flash. Am I missing something in the instructions or is it possible I have a faulty CC? I have a renogy PWM charge controller, hooked up to 3 deep cycle marine batteries, at what voltage does the controller stop charging the batteries? I have a renogy PWM charge controller, hooked up to 3 deep cycle marine batteries, at what low voltage does the controller stop charging the batteries? I have a renogy PWM charge controller, hooked up to 3 deep cycle marine batteries, at what voltage does the controller stop charging the batteries? You neglected to mention if you're using a 12V or 24V system. If 12V, then the controller equalizes at 14.6V for 30 minutes, boost voltage at 14.4V for 30 minutes, and then maintains a float voltage of 13.6V. If 24V, then the controller equalizes at 29.2V for 30 minutes, boost voltage at 28.8V for 30 minutes, and then maintains a float voltage of 27.2V. Technically, the controller is designed to always "charge" the batteries provided there is sufficient solar power. If a battery is fully charged, the controller will still supply enough voltage/current to maintain it (IE float it) at full charge. For a 12V system, that's 13.6V. For a 24V system, that's 27.2V.
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Post by Admin on Sept 14, 2018 20:08:21 GMT
I have a renogy PWM charge controller, hooked up to 3 deep cycle marine batteries, at what voltage does the controller stop charging the batteries? depends on the controller, my viewstar does 14.6v for flooded batteries, 1.5 hrs absorption time. 14.8v equalization 1.5hrs. it is also programable up to 17v & 3 hrs abs/equal. Hi everyone, first post on the forum. A while back i bought a Renogy 100w starter kit, and in it came a 30A PWM charge controller. My idea was to learn by playing with the different components, but something clicked and decided that perhaps I should learn everything i can about PV solar systems before attempting to connect anything (for my own safety). Needles to say I have learned a lot in the past year and a half. I have been slowly buying the other parts needed for a basic system. Fuses, cables, disconnects, etc. Also planing! I still have not decided whether to power something small and permanently secure it to my house, or to build a portable solar power generator. Back on to my question. I know a lot of people dismiss the DC load option that the controller includes, but I have also read that a lot of people do and achieve a lot from it. Namely they connect dc appliances directly to it. So my question is what kind of current can be sent thru this output? Is it 30A as well? or is it just not worth connecting anything other than a string of led rope? Thanks. cosmicboss, what's the specs of the controller? generally the load control is rated the same as the controller but who knows which one ya have. you can certainly leave the load side ON all the time but it seems to me it is designed for timed operation after dusk before dawn. Hi jimmy, I don't know what other spec to give other that it is the one included in the kit. It is 30A PWM, for use with AGM and FLA batteries, auto sensing 12v/24v. I do know that it comes with several modes of operating the DC load. Most of them being auto on/off by means of a photocell and a timer, a dusk to dawn mode, but also one of them is manual on/off. This last one is the one that interests me. Thanks for all your help with a little info someone can find the manual, a link to the kit, the name of the controller, the model # ... I have a viewstar and the dusk/dawn time is based on a programable panel voltage like 5v the VS3024BN "Rated Load Current: 30A" I have a 7.5 Amp Coleman Charger. I can confirm that there is power coming into the charger from the solar panels and I can also confirm that there is power going into the battery bank from the charger. There are three lights on my charger. A yellow one (charging), a Green one (fully charged) and a red one (low voltage). Yesterday my charger lights stopped working. I probably should have measured the current coming from the charger into the batteries, but I didn't, I only used a light with a positive and negative end to test. Has anyone else experienced these lights malfunctioning? Should I be worried that the charger will overcharge my batteries? Thanks for your input. I have a 7.5 Amp Coleman Charger. I can confirm that there is power coming into the charger from the solar panels and I can also confirm that there is power going into the battery bank from the charger. There are three lights on my charger. A yellow one (charging), a Green one (fully charged) and a red one (low voltage). Yesterday my charger lights stopped working. I probably should have measured the current coming from the charger into the batteries, but I didn't, I only used a light with a positive and negative end to test. Has anyone else experienced these lights malfunctioning? Should I be worried that the charger will overcharge my batteries? Thanks for your input. Hi Sun Goddess, I don't have experience with your particular model of C.C. could it be that the behavior you describe is normal for your C.C.? That after a while the green light just turns of and the charger just goes into a maintenance charge? Just a thought. I would look at the manual to see if this is not the case. I'm having the same Issue as boon. I had problem of a wire coming out. Previously I was able to get the batteries up to 13.4ish. Now they stop at 12.4. Hi, i have a question. What will going on if i use 400w solar panel and 30amp controller? Thanks Hi, i have a question. What will going on if i use 400w solar panel and 30amp controller? Thanks depends on controller, not all 30a controllers are the same. some can be overpowered and the extra power is clipped (not used), others shut down when over powered. If I assume your 100 watts are rated 6A Isc then 4 in parallel is 24A. On a cold sunny day you may see 125% output or 30A and not all 30A controllers can handle 30A input, see the specs of the controller. I'm new to solar so here is my question. I have 2-100 watt monocrystalline panels, they go to a 30 watt controller, then to the 2-12 volt batteries wired to keep them at 12 volts, then to an invertor. The invertor starts at 2000 watts and max 4000 watts. I think the invertor is drawing electricity when its on and we are not using any of the 13 watt lights. Is the invertor to large for my system and should I change to a 100 watt invertor. Also we tried to watch a movie with a 64 watt tv and a 13 watt vcr. After 1 1/2 hours the batteries went dead. Can I hook jumper cables to the batteries without disconnecting any wires to the charge controller? Is the invertor to large for my system and should I change to a 100 watt invertor. If you are only running low wattage appliances, then it might be better to switch to a lower capacity inverter. All inverters draw some current when on even with no loads attached. Generally speaking, the higher capacity the inverter, the greater the no load draw. Can I hook jumper cables to the batteries without disconnecting any wires to the charge controller? Yes, you can charge the batteries from another source without having to disconnect the controller. In fact, it's better to leave the controller attached to the batteries at all times. Also we tried to watch a movie with a 64 watt tv and a 13 watt vcr. After 1 1/2 hours the batteries went dead. Wow. That's really bad capacity wise. You didn't mention what type of batteries you're using, how much sunlight you're getting from the panels during the day, etc. Please tell me you're using deep cycle batteries and not starting batteries (like those used for cars). 1-1/2 hours with only a 77 watt draw to completely drain two batteries? Either you aren't using the proper batteries (deep cycle with a decent capacity), aren't getting enough sunlight for a long enough period to charge those batteries, or both. I have a question about my Controller. I just installed a 200w system with a Wanderer 30A controller. I can not get the battery selection switch to change the battery type. It's showing green and I believe it's supposed to be Red according to the instruction manual for a flooded battery. I've held the gray button down for 7 seconds and not flashing lights. Any help as to what I maybe doing wrong is appreciated. I have a question about my Controller. I just installed a 200w system with a Wanderer 30A controller. I can not get the battery selection switch to change the battery type. It's showing green and I believe it's supposed to be Red according to the instruction manual for a flooded battery. I've held the gray button down for 7 seconds and not flashing lights. Any help as to what I maybe doing wrong is appreciated. Hello mtroserider, I am sorry the wanderer is not working the way it should. Could you try and hold the button down for ten seconds then as quickly as possible release the button and press it again. This should start the blinking to change the battery type. If you have any questions please call us at 1800-330-8678 I'm new to solar so here is my question. I have 2-100 watt monocrystalline panels, they go to a 30 watt controller, then to the 2-12 volt batteries wired to keep them at 12 volts, then to an invertor. The invertor starts at 2000 watts and max 4000 watts. I think the invertor is drawing electricity when its on and we are not using any of the 13 watt lights. Is the invertor to large for my system and should I change to a 100 watt invertor. Also we tried to watch a movie with a 64 watt tv and a 13 watt vcr. After 1 1/2 hours the batteries went dead. Can I hook jumper cables to the batteries without disconnecting any wires to the charge controller? Hello Terry, Could you give our tech team a call at 800-330-8678. Our tech team can go over some of those values for the inverter with you. I just recently purchased a small solar panel charger which indicates 1.5 watt. I also have a battery 12V/33Ah. I have been looking for a cheap regulator that would suit what I have. I'm confused which regulator to get. How do I calculate the types with certain Amps, voltage, wattage to determine the correct regulator? I've I know the battery I have is a 33A but all the regulators I've seen are 30A, 20A, 10A ETC... I've been researching but the examples they give a way different situation which makes it a little complex. Thanks in advance. My Wander Charge Controller Batt indicator is solid red, indicating Over-Discharge, according to the manual. The Controller is solid Green, indicating charging normal. The battery has been under normal charge for a couple of days now and the Batt light is still red. Any help?? My Wander Charge Controller Batt indicator is solid red, indicating Over-Discharge, according to the manual. The Controller is solid Green, indicating charging normal. The battery has been under normal charge for a couple of days now and the Batt light is still red. Any help?? Do you have anything attached/running off of your system now?? If so unhook it.. Check your batteries and see if you have a dead one.. How old is your system?? Were your batteries fully charged before you hooked everything up.. More info needed... My system is new and nothing is currently attached. my battery is brand new and it was charged before first use. I used a meter and currently I am getting between 3 and 5 Volts from my panel and the battery is at almost 9. The controller is still Solid Red. Do I need to take the battery for a charge? I had a good charge for about a week, left a light on and the battery went to over discharge. Nay help would be great. Thank you in advance. You either have something hooked up wrong which I doubt, You have a bad or weak battery... Unhook the battery take it to where you bought it and have them put a load on it if you don't have a way to check it.. So I understand you have one battery? What type and voltage? What panel and how many? tcflipp, something ain't right, 4 volts from the panel! battery @ 9v Charge this battery ASAP. I would disconnect one panel wire and then one battery wire till the battery is charged then reconnect. Using your meter to probe the terminal connecting screws on the front of the CC, panel voltage should be equal to or greater than battery voltage. 9v @ batt may not be enough for the CC to work properly. Typically 10.5v is considered dead or 0% capacity, 12.0-12.2v ~50% capacity which is best not to go below for long battery life. You can probe the panel itself with a voltmeter. When not connected and in good sun if you probe the two wires from the panel, ya should get ~20v or more. tcflipp, something ain't right, 4 volts from the panel! battery @ 9v Yea that was my first thought.. We need much more information to be able to really help.. I finally figured it out. My connections were poor and now after two days, the controller went to slow flashing green/Float Charge and the Batt Light has returned to solid green. I think I was miss reading my meter. Now in DCv the meter is reading 11.95. Yhea almost at full charge!!!! Thank you. I finally figured it out. My connections were poor and now after two days, the controller went to slow flashing green/Float Charge and the Batt Light has returned to solid green. I think I was miss reading my meter. Now in DCv the meter is reading 11.95. Yhea almost at full charge!!!! Thank you. Glad you figured it out, but 12.7 is full charge not 11.95........ If that's all you have you still have a problem with your battery... You killed it... The wanderer tries to get a battery to the mid 14v (Boost Voltage: Sealed: 14.4V; Flooded: 14.6V; Gel: 14.2V) Then it tries to keep it at that voltage for 2 hrs (Boost Duration: 120 min) Then it would try and keep the batt at float voltage (Float Voltage: 13.8V) keeping a batt at a discharge state shortens its life. I have a 100w renogy panel with the 30amp controller connected to 2 6v deep cycle batteries wired in a series. The PV light begins blinking slow insicatiing batteries are full, then blinks fast indicating the PV is overvoltage. Why is that happening and how do I fix? would not a simple voltmeter indicate if it is truly over voltage or not, if it is not maybe renogy will replace the controller. I have the same issue with the same setup. The pv terminals on the charge controller measure 20.9V but the pv led is flashing overvoltage. If I reset the controller the led indicates normal charging for about 5 seconds and then begins flashing overvoltage. This is the 2nd renogy 30A controller that does this. So my batteries aren't getting charged. Maybe time to get something other than renogy. Hello, I have a Renogy Wanderer charge controller it is connected to 2 one hundred watt solar panels and two marine 24v lead acid batteries. It is overcharging the batteries to the point of boil over. This has occurred twice without the Wanderer restricting charge from the solar panels. I have gone through the manual and install instructions multiple times and can not find an error in its installation/ setup. Please Help, as constantly worrying about batteries boiling is keeping me awake. Thank you. A charge controllers main purpose is to prevent overcharging. Return it and get something that works. A volt meter can be a useful tool. ideally the batts should get to 14.8v, held at that voltage for 2 hrs and then maintained @ 13.?v float. Temp correction means in temps over 80F the 14.8v is reduces some and in the cold it would be higher. Does the PWM controller stop "backflow" of the battery when there is not adequate sunlight (or at night) to prevent the battery from discharging? My previous controller (Thunderbolt) didn't, and as soon as the sun was off the panels, you could watch the voltage of the battery descend on the meter even tho there was no load on the battery. Thanks One more question: I picked up a used pair of 100W Renogy panels today. I had planned on buying new, but thought it couldn't hurt to save some $. I am still planning on 2 additional new panels. 400W total. But what to do about the charge controller? is there a larger one than the 30W? Sorry - I meant 30 AMP. And I do see one on Amazn... But a jump up to $200? Whoa! Does the PWM controller stop "backflow" of the battery when there is not adequate sunlight (or at night) to prevent the battery from discharging? Yes, it does. Most modern controllers incorporate blocking diodes to accomplish that. My previous controller (Thunderbolt) didn't, and as soon as the sun was off the panels, you could watch the voltage of the battery descend on the meter even tho there was no load on the battery. Thanks Perhaps the blocking diodes were faulty. Or, depending on how much the voltage dropped, they may have been just fine. It's normal to see SOME voltage drop when the sunlight goes away, as the controller no longer has sufficient input to maintain a float voltage. Hope someone can help.bought epever viewstar A controller. The night icon is showing and it is bright sunny day.Batteries shows 12.9 V. Why is night showing? PV led green? what's the voltage at the PV terminals? pos or neg? I have 100W Renogy solar panel and the Wanderer 30 Charge Controller. I installed the CC this weekend. I connected the battery only. The Battery and Battery selection LEDs both come on green. When I press the battery selection button for at least 7 seconds, the LEDs never flash and I can't select the correct battery type. No matter how long I press the selection button, the LEDs never flash. Am I missing something in the instructions or is it possible I have a faulty CC? I have the older renogy pwm30cc. I am charging a concord lifeline 105ah agm deep cycle battery, using two 100 watt Renogy poly panels. My battery seems to be reading at 16.8 volts. The charge controller is not blinking to indicate full charge, and the battery manual seems to indicate this is an acceptable voltage, but the cc manual does not seem to indicate that it will output this much voltage. Do I have any malfunction in the charge controller? With this high voltage, should I use a voltage conditioner to protect my inverter(aims power 600/1200 pure sine)? measuring battery voltage @ the batt? 16.8 is way too high unless it is extremely cold! I'd suspect the CC. That's what I was afraid of.:/ I was planning to get an mppt, anyway, but not yet:( That's what I was afraid of.:/ I was planning to get an mppt, anyway, but not yet:( Yurtdweller, I would not be subjecting a premium AGM like a lifeline to 16.8v for any extended period of time. No sure where you found that is OK by concord??? Number one: I have a best-case situation, here. It turns out my charge controller and battery are fine. The problem is a bad voltage meter. I've tested two other, independant batteries, and I get similar, 17 to 18 volt readings. Whew! 😀Second, my lifeline users manual indicates that conditioning voltages are briefly allowed to reach these voltages. On a side note, I am considering purchasing a Victron Energy BMV700 Precision Battery Monitor, so I don't have to go through this again:) You are correct. I misread my chart, but it is getting cold enough, at night, to allow a 15.8v conditioning voltage. I am in the northeast, at altitude, in my yurt. I do not run heat at night. Please be patient with me. I have no formal electric training, and am learning as I go. Let's assume everything is working correctly. Seems no reason not to since you've determined the meter is junk based on various battery measurements. So currently there is no reason to suspect anything. It may be cold enough to use 15+v for a conditioning charge but does the controller do that (certainly not at night!!!), I like links and read manuals, controllers often have voltage limits pre set. Anyway you are good to go! It is best to keep things simple and factual. Just installed a Wanderer controller. The instructions say to hold the button for 7 seconds until the light flashes, then select the battery type. Well no matter how long the button pressed, no flashing led.. I am using a 'flooded' type battery, so would like to select the correct type. What next? Actually, the Wanderer is listed as a 30a controller. "https://www.renogy.com/renogy-wanderer-30a-pwm-charge-controller/" I'm now on my second 2x100W Renogy panel + Wanderer kit, and something's seriously wrong. I've got the Wanderer tied in to my batteries (a pair of 6V golf cart batteries in series, measuring 12.4V to the Wanderer). The Battery light's green, and I've set the battery type to Flooded (red). With the panels linked in parallel via the included branch connectors I can measure 22+ Vdc at the input cables. Yet, when I plug them into the Wanderer, the PV light remains stubbornly off and I get 0 Vdc across the screw heads. I sent my first kit back due to this problem. The second kit actually worked--the PV light glowed brightly, and charged the batteries to the float level once--but only the once. Now this second kit is failing to charge, just like its predecessor. So, what's the deal? LOL Now bird....You know that's stuffs not crap.... LOL I have a PWM 30A controller with LCD display. When I cycle through volts, current, etc. it shows 0.00 amps and on the error screen shows error 3. How do I find our what the problem is? I have a PWM 30A controller with LCD display. When I cycle through volts, current, etc. it shows 0.00 amps and on the error screen shows error 3. How do I find our what the problem is? What does your manual say is the problem? What are your volts showing?? Input and output? What does your manual say is the problem? What are your volts showing?? Input and output? Volts input and out put are staying around 12.7-12.9. Error code is low voltage so I have charged up both batteries with my charger. For some reason the solar panels are not recharging them. I only have a LED floodlight on it yet, but want to connects the water jug for my chickens so the water doesn't freeze. Both batteries are the same, 135Amp/hours. Tomorrow is supposed to be sunny, I will see if anything happens. It sounds like your CC is bad to me.. I think you said it was new if it is send it back and get a new one.. I like a MPPT CC better than a PWM if your going to be doing a lot with it.. I just disconnected my battery completely including the cables that run to my controller, and now that I reconnected the battery my charge control box has no power... is there a way to turn it back on or reset it? I just disconnected my battery completely including the cables that run to my controller, and now that I reconnected the battery my charge control box has no power... is there a way to turn it back on or reset it? There is more than one 30 amp controller. If you are asking about the Wanderer 30 amp controller then you should state it. At any rate, instruction state to connect the battery to the controller FIRST. The solar panels put out about 20 volts - you would not want to connect them to the controller FIRST because that is wrong and could damage the controller. Disconnect everything from the controller. Then connect only the battery. See how that works. Manual for the WandererI have 2 100 watt panels with the wanderer 30 amp charge controller. I was having the same battery type selection problem as well. I tried the link that "rabird" posted and it worked perfectly, basically just hold the grey button down for 7 seconds and then release and press again. The controller cycled through the battery types. My controller is now set for flooded lead acid. Thanks for the help I have 4 100W panel attached to the Wanderer CC. I have 4 US battery 2200 6V batteries (2 in series, then in parallel) for 12v. I have a Ramsond 3000W inverter attached to the batteries. This is installed at a remote site. When I visited the site recently - the inverter was beeping and output shut off. The error on the inverter was over voltage, which according to the manual happens if the battery voltage exceeds 15VDC. The display on my inverter was showing 15.8 VDC. The Wanderer battery light was solid, indicating it was charging, and the batteries were really bubbling. I disconnected the CC from the batteries and was able to reset the inverter, but I left the CC disconnected until I can figure out how I can prevent this. Any thoughts? It looks like the CC is set to shut down at 16VDC, which is higher than my inverter can handle, and seems too high for 12V batteries. I have a 30 watt Renogy Controller. My load light does not come on. I have steady green at the PV and Battery termnials. I am showing approx. 12.67 or so volts on those terminals. Only 5.6 or so on the load. What am I doing wrong? Do you have it hooked up properly? + and - reversed?
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