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Post by bupkis on Aug 9, 2018 0:03:12 GMT
yep, different flojets have different requirements!
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v10
Solar Advocate
Posts: 81
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Post by v10 on Aug 10, 2018 1:11:06 GMT
Yes 9point something would bring you to a 10a.
There is nothing more versatile than a 4x4 van, JC
You are really going to like your truck.
As you are wiring it for the build out, try to look at it as an expandable system. It's always a good idea to run a few pull lines along with your wiring that will be un-accessible later. If you need to run more wire later, it will pull thru without un-doing all your nice work.
Plus eventually you will end up with an inverter. You will want that on a battery turn off switch because they draw power even when they are not turned on. Account for that in your layout
Also just like any other job you've done in a house as a GC, go heavy on the insulation
Depending on your bumper set up, Curt makes a front receiver hitch that bolts onto the frame under a stock bumper. Not sure if it fits with the aftermarket bumpers but some of those have the receiver tube built in
Nice for a carry-all rack. Coolers,surf rod holders, removable winch.
The possibilities are endless
Yep, you are really going to like your truck
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v10
Solar Advocate
Posts: 81
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Post by v10 on Aug 10, 2018 1:22:30 GMT
Yes 9point something would bring you to a 10a.
There is nothing more versatile than a 4x4 van, JC
You are really going to like your truck.
As you are wiring it for the build out, try to look at it as an expandable system. It's always a good idea to run a few pull lines along with your wiring that will be un-accessible later. If you need to run more wire later, it will pull thru without un-doing all your nice work.
Plus eventually you will end up with an inverter. You will want that on a battery turn off switch because they draw power even when they are not turned on. Account for that in your layout
Also just like any other job you've done in a house as a GC, go heavy on the insulation
Depending on your bumper set up, Curt makes a front receiver hitch that bolts onto the frame under a stock bumper. Not sure if it fits with the aftermarket bumpers but some of those have the receiver tube built in
Nice for a carry-all rack. Coolers,surf rod holders, removable winch.
The possibilities are endless
Yep, you are really going to like your truck
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Post by Alex on Aug 10, 2018 1:23:39 GMT
the 3 point something flojet calls for a 10A fuse.
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Post by jcmontana on Aug 22, 2018 23:08:55 GMT
v10, I have that front hitch already installed,and the back hitch. I have been looking for a long time for this van,,,a cargo van with barn doors and glass,side and rear, No other windows, and an agile off road conversion. Plus came with lizard skin, all ceramic tinted windows, solar, arb fridge, custom window coverings for all windows. And not built out on the inside.. I just about have all the interior framing done, getting ready for the finish here quick. The inverter is another issue,,,,again, the elec. throughs me for a mental loop. Dont know the first thing about an inverter or hooking it up..Am going to have a hard enough time just hooking the solar system back up, I took a bunch of pictures, but my mind doesnt work well with elec.
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Post by jcmontana on Aug 22, 2018 23:15:19 GMT
I am rereading all these helpful posts as I go along . Guest--I did get some 10ga to wire from battery to fuse block. The flojet did not come with an in line fuse. So I need an in line fuse for the flow jet(10amp) and an inline fuse from the battery to fuse block(Guest recommended 30 amp here),,can someone point me to the correct type of fuses to get and the fuse containers that i would wire too. thanks
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v10
Solar Advocate
Posts: 81
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Post by v10 on Aug 23, 2018 0:37:53 GMT
Jim, thats going to be one hellofa rig! Great find.
Mine is a work horse that doubles as a weekend warrior. Meeting with Ujoint next month.
For your circuit breaker, dont think of the square D type used in a house. Its more of an in line self resetting type. See pic and link www.wiringproducts.com/bussmann-short-stop-circuit-breakers The fuse block itself takes the fuse for your Flojet and any other circuits you will be running. If you pull that 10g wire from your positive terminal(30amp circuit breaker protected)to a fuse block, it will eliminate the 'in-line fuse' that you are thinking about www.wiringproducts.com/fuse-blocksIt will put all your fuses in a nice neat easy to access row Each circuit you pull (12g wire for flojet)will need to come from the fuse block and go to your device. Then a separate wire (same gauge, different color) grounded to something that has a good connection to your frame You could buy a grounding buss bar but these vans are all metal so you really dont need one.
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v10
Solar Advocate
Posts: 81
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Post by v10 on Aug 23, 2018 1:14:31 GMT
Re-connection shouldn't be too bad once you get your head around it.
There are a several diagrams on the renogy site.
Make sure he has a fuse between the panels and the controller as shown in this diagram.
If not, thats a good place for an in-line
Attachments:
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Post by jcmontana on Aug 25, 2018 16:23:21 GMT
v10..ok well here goes, try to explain. 1: I do have a fuse just like that one in your picture between the house battery and controller.(it is after the blue sea systems ml-acr connection from the starter battery). 2:I have another big copper inline fuse that the negative wire from the starter battery goes to first before engaging the house battery . 3: V10 wrote----(The fuse block itself takes the fuse for your Flojet and any other circuits you will be running. If you pull that 10g wire from your positive terminal(30amp circuit breaker protected)to a fuse block, it will eliminate the 'in-line fuse' that you are thinking about www.wiringproducts.com/fuse-blocksIt will put all your fuses in a nice neat easy to access row) 3A:--Are you saying I should connect the 10ga wire "from the fuse block" to the LARGE fuse thats "between" the + battery cable and the controller? And piggy back it on top of the controller connection? 3B: will that eliminate that self setting inline breaker you mentioned? 4: Their is an in line fuse between the panels and controller. 5: Why do I need to ground everything to the frame, cant all grounds just go to the fuse block ground, and that grounds to the battery -(negative) with 10ga wire. 5A: the wire I bought is 12-2 duplex marine grade(red-yellow)wire, since I am pulling positive off the fuse block why not hook negative to the fuse block? Thanks alot V10 and guest for your input, I really appreciate it.
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Post by jcmontana on Aug 25, 2018 16:24:24 GMT
fwiw-My fuse block is a blue sea systems fuse block
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Post by bupkis on Aug 25, 2018 17:12:29 GMT
fwiw-My fuse block is a blue sea systems fuse block what kind of fuses does it use?
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v10
Solar Advocate
Posts: 81
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Post by v10 on Aug 26, 2018 21:55:18 GMT
Try to post a picture or a link to that fuse block for a better understanding of what you are working with.
If it has both positive and negative then 5 and 5A are good to go
3A. Definitely NOT
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Post by jcmontana on Aug 27, 2018 21:06:34 GMT
v10, meeting with ujoint, nice, quality parts...
I will check the model of fuse block once I get home,,the web site says"""Accepts ATO® and ATC® fast acting blade fuses""".
How do you post picks on this site?
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Post by bupkis on Aug 28, 2018 0:31:31 GMT
those are blade fuses just like the ones in vehicles. They simply plug in to complete the circuit.
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Post by tattoo on Aug 28, 2018 0:47:06 GMT
Nothing special about a blade fuse...
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