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Post by gevalia on Oct 10, 2018 14:17:00 GMT
All, I am setting up the solar system in my van and have questions on whether the panels AND batteries should be series/parallel. I have all these parts ready. I have 2 100W Renogy mono panels, a Renogy Rover MPPT controller (which it says is positive ground), and 2 Renogy 100amp 12V Lithium batteries. Panels to controller are around 5 feet, no longer than 7.
All appliances in the van are 12V except those that might be plugged into the inverter.
Here's my plan and I'm a bit shaky on it: 1. Panels wired on roof in SERIES 2. 10AWG between panels and controller (renogy wires) with 10amp inline fuse
3. renogy mppt rover controller 4. 8AWG between controller and batteries with a 40amp ANL fuse 5. 2 renogy 100amp lithium batteries connected in SERIES
6. 2AWG from negative battery post to chassis for ground
7. 10AWG wire from +/- of controllers load posts to a fuse box that I will wire all 12v usb ports and cigarette lighter outlets to
**** Also, the controller states that it is a positive ground. What do I need to do because of this? Do I need to do any extra wiring like? Does this mean that the battery chassis ground should be off the positive post instead of the negative post?
Thank you! Ron Miller
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Post by tattoo on Oct 10, 2018 14:29:45 GMT
Do not put the pos terminal to the chassis. What size rover CC do you have? A 40a fuse seems a bit large for your system....
Be sure and hook your 12v appliances to the battery not the CC if it has a load side to hook them to...
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Post by gevalia on Oct 10, 2018 14:39:54 GMT
The rover is a 40amp. On the renogy website somewhere I saw a setup where it was 1-to-1 when it came to controller amps to fuse so I went with that. Got it on not running cable from battery positive to chassis. Should I be running one from battery negative to chassis? On the appliances hookup(which will be via a fusebox), I will connect the fusebox to the battery thru a fuse and not to the controller load posts as you said. Now, on the series vs parallel of the 2 batteries and 2 panels....  |
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Post by gevalia on Oct 10, 2018 14:47:01 GMT
The rover is a 40amp. On the renogy website somewhere I saw a setup where it was 1-to-1 when it came to controller amps to fuse so I went with that. Got it on not running cable from battery positive to chassis. Should I be running one from battery negative to chassis? On the appliances hookup(which will be via a fusebox), I will connect the fusebox to the battery thru a fuse and not to the controller load posts as you said. Now, on the series vs parallel of the 2 batteries and 2 panels.... Correction on above, the renogy website is not where I found the info on a 1-to-1 between controller amp and fuse amp sizing. |
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Post by tattoo on Oct 10, 2018 16:37:59 GMT
Yep if it's a 40a CC that's what they suggest.... At least that's what I've read too... What I was looking at is how few panels and batteries you have I didn't figure you had such a large CC..... But that's ok you can expand and that's a good thing...
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Post by gevalia on Oct 10, 2018 17:09:42 GMT
Yep if it's a 40a CC that's what they suggest.... At least that's what I've read too... What I was looking at is how few panels and batteries you have I didn't figure you had such a large CC..... But that's ok you can expand and that's a good thing...
Thanks. |
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Post by tattoo on Oct 10, 2018 17:50:02 GMT
^^^^ Anytime^^^^^^^^ Come back often.....
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Post by bupkis on Oct 11, 2018 1:07:15 GMT
5. 2 renogy 100amp lithium batteries connected in SERIES
I guessing you do not want to do that (assuming 12v batteries). two 12v batteries in series is a 24v bank! |
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Post by Admin on Oct 11, 2018 20:31:04 GMT
All, I am setting up the solar system in my van and have questions on whether the panels AND batteries should be series/parallel. I have all these parts ready. I have 2 100W Renogy mono panels, a Renogy Rover MPPT controller (which it says is positive ground), and 2 Renogy 100amp 12V Lithium batteries. Panels to controller are around 5 feet, no longer than 7.
All appliances in the van are 12V except those that might be plugged into the inverter. Here's my plan and I'm a bit shaky on it: 1. Panels wired on roof in SERIES 2. 10AWG between panels and controller (renogy wires) with 10amp inline fuse
3. renogy mppt rover controller 4. 8AWG between controller and batteries with a 40amp ANL fuse 5. 2 renogy 100amp lithium batteries connected in SERIES
6. 2AWG from negative battery post to chassis for ground
7. 10AWG wire from +/- of controllers load posts to a fuse box that I will wire all 12v usb ports and cigarette lighter outlets to **** Also, the controller states that it is a positive ground. What do I need to do because of this? Do I need to do any extra wiring like? Does this mean that the battery chassis ground should be off the positive post instead of the negative post?
Thank you! Ron Miller
To quote Bupkis, you can only connect the lithium iron phosphate batteries in parallel. www.renogy.com/template/files/Manuals/RNG-LFP_Manual_V1.0.pdf-Renogy Team |
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Post by swampmonster on Nov 6, 2018 20:01:25 GMT
Yup, series or parallel, and even series/parallel is a choice that depends on the particular section of the total system, where panels and battery bank often require the opposite connection configuration.
The panels can be run in series, parallel, or even series/parallel depending on the charge controller and the particular install.
Same for the battery bank once you investigate your particular batteries....Your batts require parallel only, so your bank will generate only 12V nominal...Cool, that's easy, huh?...That means any inverter you select must be a 12VDC to 120VAC inverter, yup...No problem.
It's the panels that you are going to have to decide on....Keep studying all the possible panel configurations and the specs of your charge controller, and the advantages/disadvantages of series, parallel, and series/parallel.
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Post by swampmonster on Nov 8, 2018 18:27:21 GMT
The rover is a 40amp. On the renogy website somewhere I saw a setup where it was 1-to-1 when it came to controller amps to fuse so I went with that. Got it on not running cable from battery positive to chassis. Should I be running one from battery negative to chassis? On the appliances hookup(which will be via a fusebox), I will connect the fusebox to the battery thru a fuse and not to the controller load posts as you said. Now, on the series vs parallel of the 2 batteries and 2 panels.... Yes, you certainly must run large cable to chassis ground from battery bank neg....Your 40 amp fuse selection is appropriate for your CC, but a fuse is used to protect the circuit wiring AND the load....Either way, with your wiring selection and CC a 40 amp fuse is perfect....If you employed smaller wiring, then the fuse must be smaller to protect the wiring because the CC will never see it's full amperage before the wiring smokes... But, even then, that single large fuse will NOT protect your panels from themselves or each other. It is a great idea for you to also fuse each panel with a properly sized fuse for that panel because panels often release their magic smoke and a properly sized panel fuse can protect your whole array and rig. Renogy offers very high quality inline MC4 fuses just for that purpose....Just plug them inline on each panel positive wire near the panel...They are weather proof...If you shop them elsewhere, make certain to buy the SLOCABLE brand like Renogy uses. |
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