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Post by blade3609 on Nov 5, 2018 21:33:07 GMT
most mppt controllers can be over 'loaded' to some extent, "The controller will limit the battery charging current to the maximum battery current rating. Therefore, an over-sized solar array will not operate at peak power.' In extreme cold (do you ever get that!!!) and very low battery voltage one could see over 40A. I'd stay with series pairs, more eff transforming 35v to 14 than 52v to 14, but do consider the voltage drop, if you add another pair the amps go up, if ya keep to 2 strings then the amps stays the same but the voltage goes up. In my area its all sun and no winters... The max charge current i've seen with 4x 100 watt panels is a peak of 27 Amps and charges normally at 22A at midday (peaksun). which is about right considering each panel produces 6 amps at 16V.
Also max power of 350 watts of solar which is probably the peak of 27A which it never really charges at, only peaks.
According to docs of the battery, the max charging current of the renogy 200ah agm battery is 80A. more eff transforming 35v to 14 than 52v to 14 , that is correct, it is also illustrated in the rover manual in a graph.
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Post by playersz28 on Nov 5, 2018 21:54:46 GMT
I'm running 4x 160w panels configured as 2 series sets that are paralleled. I figure the panels won't ever hit peak output and even if they do I'm <10% over on the current (640/14.8) when boost charging. Last winter I had 320w thru a 40A Tracer. I'll see in Jan how it does with 640w thru the Rover.
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Post by tattoo on Nov 5, 2018 22:14:26 GMT
Waw, you are in this solar world a while now. whats the max power you've seen with your 8 panels? each 100 watts right? something around 700? What I can remember is 675w in the summer with my 8 panels with no clouds and it's hot.... My panels aren't flat but close to it.... Right now with the Sun low in the horizon I'm only getting about 425w on a good clear day.... But that's enough to get all the power I need for what I'm using each day.... I'm making right at 0.9kwh a day....
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Post by bupkis on Nov 6, 2018 2:33:02 GMT
most mppt controllers can be over 'loaded' to some extent, "The controller will limit the battery charging current to the maximum battery current rating. Therefore, an over-sized solar array will not operate at peak power.' In extreme cold (do you ever get that!!!) and very low battery voltage one could see over 40A. I'd stay with series pairs, more eff transforming 35v to 14 than 52v to 14, but do consider the voltage drop, if you add another pair the amps go up, if ya keep to 2 strings then the amps stays the same but the voltage goes up. In my area its all sun and no winters... The max charge current i've seen with 4x 100 watt panels is a peak of 27 Amps and charges normally at 22A at midday (peaksun). which is about right considering each panel produces 6 amps at 16V.
Also max power of 350 watts of solar which is probably the peak of 27A which it never really charges at, only peaks.
According to docs of the battery, the max charging current of the renogy 200ah agm battery is 80A. more eff transforming 35v to 14 than 52v to 14 , that is correct, it is also illustrated in the rover manual in a graph.
Someone actual reads the manual!!! good for you.
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Post by blade3609 on Nov 6, 2018 15:32:03 GMT
LOL..
Can I use uneven cable lengths for positive and negative from the battery to the inverter? Because now the negative is pretty far from the inverter, but the positive is right there... 3ft negative and 1ft positive to the inverter is that fine?
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Post by tattoo on Nov 6, 2018 15:44:06 GMT
LOL.. Can I use uneven cable lengths for positive and negative from the battery to the inverter? Because now the negative is pretty far from the inverter, but the positive is right there... 3ft negative and 1ft positive to the inverter is that fine? It won't hurt a thing, That's not really that far away...
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Post by blade3609 on Nov 13, 2018 13:11:27 GMT
I want to add a voltmeter, and i was thinking of adding a negative and a positive busbar, but then i found this.
Can i use that like this?
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Post by bupkis on Nov 13, 2018 13:53:02 GMT
yes
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Post by tattoo on Nov 13, 2018 14:04:32 GMT
That won't hurt a thing to attach it like that...
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Post by playersz28 on Nov 13, 2018 14:50:29 GMT
At 60$ it's an expensive way to add a voltmeter unless you want the rest of the fused connections for something else. A simple inline fuse would work fine if it's just the voltmeter you want added.
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Post by blade3609 on Nov 13, 2018 17:04:44 GMT
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Post by blade3609 on Nov 13, 2018 17:11:43 GMT
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Post by tattoo on Nov 13, 2018 18:06:51 GMT
That is really cool... I'm thinking about adding wind to my system.... That would be a nice addition...
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Post by blade3609 on Nov 13, 2018 18:20:29 GMT
That is really cool... I'm thinking about adding wind to my system.... That would be a nice addition... I have it at home, but i need a busbar in order to properly install this. I dont want to just place a tiny wire between the studs on the battery connected to the transfer switch.
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Post by tattoo on Nov 13, 2018 18:25:40 GMT
I have it at home, but i need a busbar in order to properly install this. I dont want to just place a tiny wire between the studs on the battery connected to the transfer switch. That makes a lot of sense...
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