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Post by Tom in Texas on Feb 8, 2019 14:57:17 GMT
Hi
I recently installed a starter kit system, paired with an inverter an LED flood light.
I'm using a pair of these to illuminate a flag pole 24x7. The light has an auto dusk-to-dawn sensor.
After a few days, I'm getting an E1 error: Over-discharging. I think I have identified the problem but want to confirm if I can.
The LED light is an AC fixture and draws 28 Watts. Going back and checking I used an inverter with the following specs:
300W Power Inverter DC 12V to 110V AC Car Inverter with 4.2A Dual USB Car Adapter
Looks to me like my inverter is overdrawing from the controller because its a 300W.
Seems like I need to replace the inverter with a 50Watt unit.
Does that sound right?
Thanks for any help.
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Post by tattoo on Feb 8, 2019 15:24:52 GMT
Do you have the load hooked to the 12v load side of the CC? If so that's your problem it should be hooked to your battery....
You didn't say what size battery you have, That's very important....
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Post by bupkis on Feb 8, 2019 15:29:25 GMT
no mention of battery size
inverters have a draw when ever they are on and seems your's in on 24/7, can you go with a 12v light?
28 watts is 2+ amps 12v DC, call it 3A (including inverter ineff). For 12 hrs that is 36 ah being used by the light and addition idle draw from the inverter during the day. One 100w panel is gonna 'make' 20 ah on a good sunny day with the panel pointed at the noon sun, so you'd need 2 just to replace the 36ah used by the light. not to mention days that are not so sunny.
I'd suggest you find a lower wattage 12v light and use the controller's dusk/dawn feature cuz your 120v light is discharging (overdischarging) your battery
Turn the inverter off for several days to let the battery get fully charged!!!
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Post by Tom on Feb 8, 2019 16:14:06 GMT
Thanks -for taking a look.
I'm a bit confused by the "dusk to dawn control" of the controller. B/C the installation guidance indicates that the controller needs to be protected from the weather. Therefore, I have it installed inside of a metal control box.
See below some details on the elements in the system.
Thanks
Battery: UPG 85980/D5722 Sealed Lead Acid Battery (12V; 35 AH; UB12350)
Inverter: 300W Power Inverter DC 12V to 110V AC
Perhaps I can change the Working Mode defined in the controller?
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Post by tattoo on Feb 8, 2019 18:13:56 GMT
Battery: UPG 85980/D5722 Sealed Lead Acid Battery (12V; 35 AH; UB12350) Inverter: 300W Power Inverter DC 12V to 110V AC Perhaps I can change the Working Mode defined in the controller? Your problem is your battery is to small and your not making enough power for what your trying to run each day..... Changing the working mode won't help that.... |
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Post by bupkis on Feb 8, 2019 18:39:55 GMT
Hi Tom, the timed and dusk/dawn feature of the controller are based on panel voltage, if panel voltage drops below some set voltage say 6v then the controller believes it is night on the other hand if the panel voltage rises above some set voltage then that is considered day. The location of the controller with respect to the sun has no bearing. This is for the load terminals of a controller which are not designed for large loads.
it seems you are relying of the dusk/dawn feature of your light and the inverter is ON 24/7 using power.
For ONE day of autonomy you would limit your power use to 1/2 of your battery capacity for long battery life.
For TWO days of autonomy """"" 1/4 of your battery capacity ...
Other things to consider is time of year as solar panels generally harvest less in the winter due to the low sun angle
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Post by Tom on Feb 8, 2019 19:00:41 GMT
Thanks Bupkis - Yea. It appears that relying on my dusk/dawn sensor on the light was the mistake I made. I looked up the proper long/lat and optimized the angle for the winter, as summers get plenty of daylight in North Texas. I chose an AC light b/c I was concerned about the sufficiency of output of a 12V light fixture for a 25' flag pole. I'm thinking I can add a dusk/dawn sensor between the controller and the inverter, to eliminate that 24/7 energy drain. I'm also thinking that the Working Mode of the controller can be used to perform a similar function: In the guide it says that Mode 2 (Light control + Time Control) allows me to set a predefined period of time for energy draw from the controller. That looks to be definable between 1 - 14 hours for load usage, although is a bit unclear of the timing setting process. The inline dusk/dawn sensor may be best I'm thinking. Easy enough to add and only around $10 each. Any thoughts? thanks again Hi Tom, the timed and dusk/dawn feature of the controller are based on panel voltage, if panel voltage drops below some set voltage say 6v then the controller believes it is night on the other hand if the panel voltage rises above some set voltage then that is considered day. The location of the controller with respect to the sun has no bearing. This is for the load terminals of a controller which are not designed for large loads. it seems you are relying of the dusk/dawn feature of your light and the inverter is ON 24/7 using power. For ONE day of autonomy you would limit your power use to 1/2 of your battery capacity for long battery life. For TWO days of autonomy """"" 1/4 of your battery capacity ... Other things to consider is time of year as solar panels generally harvest less in the winter due to the low sun angle |
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Post by bupkis on Feb 8, 2019 20:18:34 GMT
What controller do you have? how many watts of solar panel(s)?
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Post by Tom on Feb 8, 2019 22:03:16 GMT
What controller do you have? how many watts of solar panel(s)? the Panel is 50 Watt & the controller is the 10A / 20A version Thanks |
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Post by tattoo on Feb 8, 2019 22:17:48 GMT
the Panel is 50 Watt & the controller is the 10A / 20A version Thanks That's your problem along with your small battery... Not the CC.... This time of year your not making enough power.... |
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Post by Admin on Feb 9, 2019 19:06:16 GMT
What controller do you have? how many watts of solar panel(s)? the Panel is 50 Watt & the controller is the 10A / 20A version Thanks I believe the culprit is your system size. If you're running 28W for about 12 hours with an inverter that is always on, you need to expand your storage capacity as well as the charging rate. A 100W System with approximately 66Ah (Accounting for 50% depth of discharge) should allow you to use your lights in the fashion you intend. -Renogy Team |
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Post by tattoo on Feb 10, 2019 2:32:15 GMT
I believe the culprit is your system size. If you're running 28W for about 12 hours with an inverter that is always on, you need to expand your storage capacity as well as the charging rate. A 100W System with approximately 66Ah (Accounting for 50% depth of discharge) should allow you to use your lights in the fashion you intend. Just as I thought...... ^^^^^^ Thank you........... |
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