BT reading 10 watts?

Did you drive it on a hill or curb on one side of your van??

parked

Your analysis cannot be complete until you factor in these comments from bupkis. I learned something here. As usual, things are not always as simple as they seem. Please read this post (again) and take note of what charge state the batteries are in (indicated by the battery icon that bupkis referred to). Remember, the charge controller is responding to what the battery needs. That is its main purpose. It is designed to protect the battery from both over and under charging. So, regardless of what the panels are "producing" or "making" or "generating", the charge controller will protect the battery by only "using" what the battery needs, based on its current state of charge.

What bupkis pointed out, is that when the battery is at a point where it needs maximum charge ("bulk" status), and you have no load running at the time, then what BT will be showing will at the same time be what the controller is "using" and the panels are producing. Of course if the panels have the capacity to produce a lot more than what the controller ever needs, you cannot know that from the BT app, since by design, the controller draws only what it needs from the panels. Think about it: if the panels were "making" 100 watts, but only 10 watts was needed to charge the battery (for simplicity, let's assume the load is off), then if the entire 100 watts was flowing into the controller, what device would be dissipating the excess 90 watts?

Now if you are in the mood for yet another thought, here is what kind of completes the story:
Each component in your system is just a device that reacts to inputs to produce certain outputs. They know little or nothing about each other. So, for example, if your load needs 500 watts to run, and your inverter can handle it, that amount of power will flow to the load until your battery drops down to a point where the protection circuitry of the inverter shuts it off. Prior to that point, your charge controller has been reacting to the change in battery conditions (voltage, current and possibly temperature), and supplying only what the battery needed to be safely charged, IF AVAILABLE. If the panels were not generating enough power to meet the demand, the battery voltage would continue to drop until either the controller, the inverter, or other external protection circuitry shut off the load. 

(Sorry my post is out of sequence. I had to take a phone call while I was writing it, then other posts came in ...)

I only have a Maxxfan connected to my batteries, so very little load at all.

The controller goes into bulk mode when it needs to. It is solely based on the status of the battery and nothing else. The controller doesn't care how the battery got there: heavy load for a short time, or small load over a long time, or idle for months without charging ... it doesn't care. It has the "same" logic as a battery charger that you plug into the wall. It detects the battery status and then charges appropriately whenever you hook them up together. Those chargers get their power from the AC outlet, whereas a solar charge controller gets its power from the sun, by regulating the output (using PWM or MPPT) from solar panels.

So, yes, you can force bulk mode by draining the battery to a safe level, say 12.4 volts. Do that by running a load larger than your panels can supply, or at night when you have no sun, then in the morning, as bupkis said, the charger will rev up and grab as much power as it can ONLY UP TO WHAT IT NEEDS, to start re-charging the battery.

OK starting to sink in now, I'll put a good load on my batteries tonight and see if I can get them down to 12.4ish. Then tomorrow I'll hide in the shade for a few hours and then go hit the sun. If I get this correctly, then the controller will jump to bulk charging and be taking everything my panels have, to a point of not over charging them. This all explains why when I first connected my system up and my batteries were at 12.4 or so why I saw the watts spike to 145.