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Post by mediadogg on Aug 12, 2019 14:26:03 GMT
Ok, here is a revised diagram. I use this configuration in two of my mini-systems. The only reason I am using the redundant ATS (ProWatt) is that the MOES can actually wind up being switched to the solar input, even if there is no AC coming on that leg, and the grid leg is still powered, due to the ground fault outlet being tripped on the inverter. The trigger input to the MOES from the battery keeps the MOES switched to the inverter leg, even though there is no AC coming in. Mini System using both ProWatt and MOES ATS
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Post by blade3609 on Aug 12, 2019 23:41:23 GMT
Ok, here is a revised diagram. I use this configuration in two of my mini-systems. The only reason I am using the redundant ATS (ProWatt) is that the MOES can actually wind up being switched to the solar input, even if there is no AC coming on that leg, and the grid leg is still powered, due to the ground fault outlet being tripped on the inverter. The trigger input to the MOES from the battery keeps the MOES switched to the inverter leg, even though there is no AC coming in. Mini System using both ProWatt and MOES ATSThats a nice work around buddie!
I hope you find a solution for the ground issue at hand with the MOES. Please do share. But have you narrowed down when it actually trips? or does it trip all the time? depending on the load?
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Post by blade3609 on Aug 12, 2019 23:55:15 GMT
Does the prowatt make buzzing noises? Have you opened it? Whats under the hood? Is it as safe as they claim?
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Post by mediadogg on Aug 13, 2019 13:45:59 GMT
Does the prowatt make buzzing noises? Have you opened it? Whats under the hood? Is it as safe as they claim? I have not narrowed down why and when it trips. Since the system runs seamlessly 99% of the time, I usually forget about it until I notice that the breaker has tripped. Happens a few times a week. I have not opened the ProWatt. It does not buzz, but there is a mild click indicating a relay inside. I think the default wiring is to prefer the grid input, so I usually have to wire them with the inputs swapped (the input they label "inverter," I connect to the grid and vice-versa). Maybe that has something to do with tripping the GFC. Also, I do not have the inverter frame earth grounded. It floats. That might also be the problem. I admit to not being confident with messing with or understanding how to correctly configure grounding in my systems.
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Post by blade3609 on Aug 13, 2019 14:58:17 GMT
when switching through the MOES the GFC tripped on trhe inverter right? not when making a switch on the PROwatt?
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Post by mediadogg on Aug 13, 2019 15:36:02 GMT
when switching through the MOES the GFC tripped on trhe inverter right? not when making a switch on the PROwatt? I have not noticed that issue when I have used the ProWatt alone. But of course now, the two I have are being used along with the MOES. Today I just got my solid state relay to be used to toggle the MOES trigger line. If that works, I will be eliminating the ProWatt from the configuration to free them up for other projects (my garage refrigerator running on its own mini-system!!!)
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Post by tattoo on Aug 13, 2019 17:15:43 GMT
I have not noticed that issue when I have used the ProWatt alone. But of course now, the two I have are being used along with the MOES. Today I just got my solid state relay to be used to toggle the MOES trigger line. If that works, I will be eliminating the ProWatt from the configuration to free them up for other projects (my garage refrigerator running on its own mini-system!!!) I have been reading and keeping up with this thread and I was wondering the need for all of the special things you guys are using in your systems? ? ? ? Does it help it run better??
This is just a question.....
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Post by mediadogg on Aug 13, 2019 19:42:04 GMT
I have not noticed that issue when I have used the ProWatt alone. But of course now, the two I have are being used along with the MOES. Today I just got my solid state relay to be used to toggle the MOES trigger line. If that works, I will be eliminating the ProWatt from the configuration to free them up for other projects (my garage refrigerator running on its own mini-system!!!) I have been reading and keeping up with this thread and I was wondering the need for all of the special things you guys are using in your systems? ? ? ? Does it help it run better??
This is just a question..... Well I would ask what is the meaning of "better"? And then follow up with "better than what"? My answers would be "better" = run the way I want it to, in order to meet my needs, and "better than what" = meeting my needs instead of not meeting them. Simple as that. No "right" or "wrong." For example, as I was explaining before, I waste so much electricity on electronics and a big old house, that I can't afford to go "off grid" on a whole house basis. Just too expensive. Also, I like to tinker - "DIY." If I had one of those Solar City solutions, I would be bored out of my skull. So, my mini-systems are affordable, do useful work (I got a check back from my power company last month), give me a chance to tinker, and with all the extra gizmos, they are almost "set and forget," so each day I generate some juice, day after day, without having to remember to turn something on or off. Does that help to paint the picture? Now if I were lucky enough to own a vacation cabin with good sun exposure, and energy usage in that cabin that would allow to go totally "off grid" with a traditional simple setup of PV > CC > Battery > Inverter > Load, I would gladly do it!!! At a minimum, I would still have a battery protection board, and maybe also a timer to prevent the inverter from running the battery down at night.
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Post by tattoo on Aug 13, 2019 20:29:23 GMT
Well I would ask what is the meaning of "better"? And then follow up with "better than what"?
That's a good answer, I should have been clearer with my question.....
I guess better than a simple system like mine? Without all of those switches and things like the MOES trigger line, ProWatt etc.... Or are they needed when your on the grid??
Like I said it's just a question trying to understand other peoples systems better.... Thanks
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Post by mediadogg on Aug 13, 2019 21:26:00 GMT
Well I would ask what is the meaning of "better"? And then follow up with "better than what"?
That's a good answer, I should have been clearer with my question.....
I guess better than a simple system like mine? Without all of those switches and things like the MOES trigger line, ProWatt etc.... Or are they needed when your on the grid??
Like I said it's just a question trying to understand other peoples systems better.... Thanks
Right, if I get your question correctly. If you don't have enough power to be completely off grid, as you do, then you need some way to safely and reliably switch back and forth. I think that's basically it. Even though not totally off-grid, you get the satisfaction of knowing that at least you are doing as much as you can. Or you can go the expensive mickey-mouse of "grid-tied".
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Post by tattoo on Aug 13, 2019 21:45:17 GMT
Right, if I get your question correctly. If you don't have enough power to be completely off grid, as you do, then you need some way to safely and reliably switch back and forth. I think that's basically it. Even though not totally off-grid, you get the satisfaction of knowing that at least you are doing as much as you can. Or you can go the expensive mickey-mouse of "grid-tied". Yep that was my question...... So that's all those things do..... That's good to know if I ever want to hook up to the grid.....
Thanks for your answers....
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Post by blade3609 on Aug 13, 2019 21:57:26 GMT
when switching through the MOES the GFC tripped on trhe inverter right? not when making a switch on the PROwatt? I have not noticed that issue when I have used the ProWatt alone. But of course now, the two I have are being used along with the MOES. Today I just got my solid state relay to be used to toggle the MOES trigger line. If that works, I will be eliminating the ProWatt from the configuration to free them up for other projects (my garage refrigerator running on its own mini-system!!!) Which solid state relay did you buy? Did you also draw a diagram for that?
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Post by blade3609 on Aug 13, 2019 22:00:20 GMT
I have not noticed that issue when I have used the ProWatt alone. But of course now, the two I have are being used along with the MOES. Today I just got my solid state relay to be used to toggle the MOES trigger line. If that works, I will be eliminating the ProWatt from the configuration to free them up for other projects (my garage refrigerator running on its own mini-system!!!) Which solid state relay did you buy? Did you also draw a diagram for that?
Yes my friend. My goal is to add more load when available during sunlight and move the load over the grid at night. Now i have 2x 200AH batteries , but those drain over night to 60 percent when using just about ~90 watts per hour at night. Batteries are expensive, and i don't want to plug more load manually each day during sun hours, need to automate this.
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Post by mediadogg on Aug 14, 2019 2:45:05 GMT
I have not noticed that issue when I have used the ProWatt alone. But of course now, the two I have are being used along with the MOES. Today I just got my solid state relay to be used to toggle the MOES trigger line. If that works, I will be eliminating the ProWatt from the configuration to free them up for other projects (my garage refrigerator running on its own mini-system!!!) Which solid state relay did you buy? Did you also draw a diagram for that?
Actually, I might be returning it. I was going to use it to cobble together my own way to turn off the trigger voltage to the MOES when there was no AC coming from the inverter. But then I remembered there was a cheap ready-made AC controlled relay that does this, and that I already had one sitting in the drawer waiting for this moment. So tomorrow, I will hook it up and see if / how it works, and whether eliminating the extra ATS affects how often the GFC trips. But that will take days of observation.
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Post by blade3609 on Aug 14, 2019 3:31:06 GMT
Keep me posted buddie!
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