raydas
Solar Devotee
Posts: 166
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Post by raydas on Aug 16, 2019 12:44:00 GMT
****A disclaimer, this thread contains material and discussions that is "...dangerous and not productive...". I guess that warning should satisfy everybody. **** I have read the manual for this device and I have some questions.
Because I have electronics connected to the Load terminal, what is the voltage range on this? When I measure the voltage, at the Load terminal connectors, with no power from the solar panels, it looks like it is battery voltage. So, does that mean that when the solar panels are functioning and the battery voltage is up to ~14V, does that mean that the Load voltage is also ~14V?
When the panels are working and the battery is fully charged, Rover is in float, is the Load getting the power from the battery or is it getting power from the solar panel directly, or a combination of both?
I have a Gigabyte Brix n2807 computer connected to the Load, so far it seems to be working as expected. But, now I am curious that if the Load gets up ~14V, what is that doing to the computer. Not sure if the computer electrical is that tolerant, will it eventually get fried with ~14V input.
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Post by bupkis on Aug 16, 2019 13:24:32 GMT
battery voltage which of course can be in the upper 14s+ when charging. ie same as connecting directly to battery.
In float power comes from the battery but that power is replaced by the panels, if enough power is used that the panels can not keep the battery voltage in float then eventually the controller will change modes to bulk and start the charging cycle over.
have no idea about your computers' DC input. They make gadgets that can regulate voltage.
In the RV world folks believe their fridge's DC brain has a 15.3v limit as stated by one fridge maker and adjust equalize voltage to avoid such voltage.
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raydas
Solar Devotee
Posts: 166
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Post by raydas on Aug 16, 2019 14:02:53 GMT
My volt meter is getting a real workout today. It looks like the Load voltage is the same as what the battery voltage is. Meaning, the battery is being charged, it is now at 13V, and the Load voltage is also at 13V. I think I have seen the battery voltage up 14V when getting a boost charge, I think. So far my computer, that is attached, has not blown up on me, yet.
It would be nice if the Load would have some kind of regulated voltage, so if the battery gets up to 14V, for a longer period of time, the Load would remain at ~12V-12.5V regulated.
I know somebody is going to mention that I put an external DC-DC regulator at the Load terminal, I know a little bit about doing some wiring. Not sure if I could find a DC-DC 12V 15A regulator, that would work in my setup, and then have it wired correctly.
So, I can assume that the Rover controller is all about the battery, every function of the controller is to keep the battery charged. Maybe I should start thinking about grabbing the load off the battery directly. Not sure what kind of usage I could do with the Rover Load.
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Post by tattoo on Aug 16, 2019 14:10:47 GMT
It would be nice if the Load would have some kind of regulated voltage, so if the battery gets up to 14V, for a longer period of time, the Load would remain at ~12V-12.5V regulated. Can I ask why not just hook it up to an inverter?? That way you won't have to worry about it?? Or is your device just 12v?
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raydas
Solar Devotee
Posts: 166
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Post by raydas on Aug 16, 2019 15:01:32 GMT
Since all this solar stuff is very new to me, I am not sure which is the best way to go, and not waste a lot of money because of incorrect decisions.
What I have heard, so far, about inverters, is that they use a lot of power, just to produce the AC power. I got the impression that inverters are very inefficient way of producing power. Now, I do not want to spend a large bundle of money on batteries and find out that my setup needs even more batteries, which leads too more panels to charge the batteries. This scenario might sound good for the Renogy pocket book, but …
As for the computer, it needs 12V 5 Amps, it came with a power supply that is rated for that. My assumption is, that it could work off a DC supply directly. Also, with the power supply that came with the computer, I could plug it into an inverter. What this leads to is, how efficient are the inverters these days. Maybe another thread to talk about inverters.
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Post by Admin on Aug 16, 2019 15:58:10 GMT
I have read the manual for this device and I have some questions. Because I have electronics connected to the Load terminal, what is the voltage range on this? When I measure the voltage, at the Load terminal connectors, with no power from the solar panels, it looks like it is battery voltage. So, does that mean that when the solar panels are functioning and the battery voltage is up to ~14V, does that mean that the Load voltage is also ~14V? When the panels are working and the battery is fully charged, Rover is in float, is the Load getting the power from the battery or is it getting power from the solar panel directly, or a combination of both? I have a Gigabyte Brix n2807 computer connected to the Load, so far it seems to be working as expected. But, now I am curious that if the Load gets up ~14V, what is that doing to the computer. Not sure if the computer electrical is that tolerant, will it eventually get fried with ~14V input. The load terminal will essentially mirror the battery voltage. So it could be assumed that the over-voltage disconnect will be the threshold for the load terminal. You would want to make sure your electronics fall under this DC voltage range. -Renogy Team
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Post by tattoo on Aug 16, 2019 17:28:07 GMT
The load terminal will essentially mirror the battery voltage. So it could be assumed that the over-voltage disconnect will be the threshold for the load terminal. You would want to make sure your electronics fall under this DC voltage range. -Renogy Team That's very good to know..... I had no idea they were the same voltage.....
So answer this..... Why do so many people get error codes hooked up to the load terminal if it's the same voltage as the battery??
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Post by tattoo on Aug 16, 2019 17:33:28 GMT
What I have heard, so far, about inverters, is that they use a lot of power, just to produce the AC power. I got the impression that inverters are very inefficient way of producing power. Yes all inverters take power to run...... They are using power ALL the time even when they are not being used if they are turned on that is.........
The key here is to not get an inverter bigger than you need...... I started with a 2000w and figured right quick that it was way to large because of the power it was using so I bought a 500w and it works great...... But if I'm running a table saw or something like that I switch to the 2000w so I do need it sometimes..... No one tells you not to buy a huge inverter if you don't need it but they should and I have several times but people know better than I......
Also with an inverter you won't have to worry about the batteries fluctuating voltage.....
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Post by Admin on Aug 16, 2019 18:37:31 GMT
The load terminal will essentially mirror the battery voltage. So it could be assumed that the over-voltage disconnect will be the threshold for the load terminal. You would want to make sure your electronics fall under this DC voltage range. -Renogy Team That's very good to know..... I had no idea they were the same voltage..... So answer this..... Why do so many people get error codes hooked up to the load terminal if it's the same voltage as the battery??
Depends on the error code specifically. There is still a current threshold limitations on the load terminals depending on the controller. -Renogy Team
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Post by tattoo on Aug 16, 2019 20:17:47 GMT
Depends on the error code specifically. There is still a current threshold limitations on the load terminals depending on the controller. -Renogy Team It's the same error code that everyone gets that try and use the load side with a large device..... Many times it's not even that large......
I know better than to use it......
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raydas
Solar Devotee
Posts: 166
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Post by raydas on Aug 16, 2019 20:34:51 GMT
Yes, you can add my name to the list of getting an error code, while using the Load.
Today I was trying to add another device to my load strip, and of course I got the error code after the Load power shutdown. I guess it is reaching that annoying point.
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Post by tattoo on Aug 16, 2019 22:26:34 GMT
Yes, you can add my name to the list of getting an error code, while using the Load. Today I was trying to add another device to my load strip, and of course I got the error code after the Load power shutdown. I guess it is reaching that annoying point. The load side isn't designed to run much more than just lights..... You have been very lucky...... It's time for you to buy a small inverter...... Error code will be solved.........
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raydas
Solar Devotee
Posts: 166
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Post by raydas on Aug 16, 2019 23:08:40 GMT
Yep, I am working out a new design, in my head, for a new setup of the system. I just looked at my solar station and I noticed that my computer, that is hooked to the Load power strip, is shutdown. I hope it did not give up the smoke. I will have to figure some other non important job for the Load side.
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Post by bupkis on Aug 16, 2019 23:58:51 GMT
the common error is E04 load short circuit. I person figured it out as a switch, others don't communicate or stay here long enough to decipher the issue.
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raydas
Solar Devotee
Posts: 166
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Post by raydas on Aug 17, 2019 12:24:18 GMT
In my case I got an error of, Load short circuit or an overload, did not catch the error code number itself.
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