raydas
Solar Devotee
Posts: 166
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Post by raydas on Aug 17, 2019 15:52:57 GMT
Thanks for all the information so far, guys, I will keep pursuing this in my own way.
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Post by bupkis on Aug 17, 2019 15:55:48 GMT
Since I have my panels in three different areas, it would be nice to know what the panels are producing in terms of Volts. If and when I get a chance I might try to get some data as to what the panels are doing when you have it in its optimal position, perpendicular to the sun, and how the efficiency deters as the panel is moved away from the perpendicular. I have not seen that data for the Renogy panels. So, in other words, short of having the panels in perpendicular position, for the location, what would be the next best orientation that I could come up with. I think that kind of data is very important, unless I find out that the panels are a hundred percent efficient at any orientation. easy to read panel volts right on the lcd of the rover while in bulk/'mppt' mode (in operation) or you can test them with an amp meter while changing the angle. renogy.boards.net/thread/159/solar-panel-troubleshootingsun angle does change voltage but not as much as sun angle jacks with power (if volts doesn't change then that other component amps does). Power is what should be compared. Good ole Pythagorean Theorem can be used to calculate the perpendicular component of angled sun. power reduction from heat is based on the specs of the panel and panel temp. Renogy usually has a download 'specs' on their panels that shows this, often reported as NOTC, like www.renogy.com/content/files/Specifications/RNG-100D-SS%20spec.pdfthis guy has done some of the calculations with results for whole day/season, not just a moment in time. www.solarpaneltilt.com/ |
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raydas
Solar Devotee
Posts: 166
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Post by raydas on Aug 17, 2019 16:10:53 GMT
The solarpaneltilt.com looks like the information that I was seeking. I guess I have to get better in phrasing my query on the internet.
With that information, I can do away with the tedious job of wiring and data collection. Now I have to check all of the wires in my contraption setup. Some of the wires were getting hot to the touch, wires are not handling the current as I would of hoped. One thing about this solar stuff, some new problem always pops up, at least for the beginner.
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Post by tattoo on Aug 17, 2019 16:52:42 GMT
Thanks for all the information so far, guys, I will keep pursuing this in my own way. Now that sounds like a plan.....
But I do wish you would post a diagram of your system to see if we could help you.......
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Post by mediadogg on Aug 17, 2019 17:13:36 GMT
The solarpaneltilt.com looks like the information that I was seeking. I guess I have to get better in phrasing my query on the internet. With that information, I can do away with the tedious job of wiring and data collection. Now I have to check all of the wires in my contraption setup. Some of the wires were getting hot to the touch, wires are not handling the current as I would of hoped. One thing about this solar stuff, some new problem always pops up, at least for the beginner. Geez ... why don't you just study it? You don't have to hope. There is tons of info on wire size, fuse ratings, panels wiring configurations, etc. The moment you told us that you paralleled 50W panels with 100W panels, I knew you were in trouble. Hearing paralleling a wet lead acid with SLA was another caution point. Now, hearing "hot wires" spells big danger. I highly recommend - STOP right now and do some research before you hurt yourself. Take advantage of, now 3 offers to help you, if you would just share more about what you are doing. Your response has been "never mind, I'll just keep doing it my way." Then why did you come here in the first place? |
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Post by tattoo on Aug 17, 2019 18:40:59 GMT
I highly recommend - STOP right now and do some research before you hurt yourself. Or even worse burn your house down........ I'm not sure at this point if he has fuses , breakers or any safety features..... |
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russ
Solar Advocate
Posts: 63
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Post by russ on Aug 17, 2019 19:12:08 GMT
I recommend using the four 100 watt panels in series (as Mediadog suggested) with your Rover charge controller, provided it is a Rover rated at 30 or 40 amps. I would set up the 400 watts of solar panels in series and the Rover charge controller to charge your 100 Ah deep cycle battery. With wiring appropriate for the voltage and current the panels can produce. Because the flooded car battery is mismatched to the deep cycle battery they shouldn't be connected in parallel, I would set it (the flooded car battery) up separately with the two 50 watt solar panels as a separate system. To set up the flooded car battery as a independent system you obtain another MPPT charge controller, or PWM if you get one capable of handling the combine voltage of the two 50 watt panels and connect the two 50 watt panels in series. Otherwise, you could connect the two 50 watt panels in parallel and connect them to a less expensive PWM charge controller to charge the flooded car battery. This would give you two systems that would work more efficiently than the way that you have it now. I would also face all the panels south because you are in the northern hemisphere. And determine the best angle above horizontal to place them. Depending upon your solar panel mounting, you might change the angle every few months to improve the output of the panels as the seasons change. What size and length of wire are you using? By putting the four 100 watt panels in series you lower the current requirements of the wiring from the panels to the charge controller. I realize that you are experimenting, but I would think that part of that would be in an attempt to build the system to work as efficiently as possible. I take it you are collecting data to determine how much power you can reliably use from the solar power equipment you are working with? |
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Post by tattoo on Aug 17, 2019 20:43:51 GMT
^^^^^^^^^^^ That's damn good info right there......^^^^^^^^^^
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Post by mediadogg on Aug 17, 2019 20:49:50 GMT
Absolutely. Great info russ!!!
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raydas
Solar Devotee
Posts: 166
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Post by raydas on Aug 17, 2019 20:56:36 GMT
My latitude is 42.48*. Yes, I am trying to determine the solar usable power aspect of my setup.
My reasoning for panels in parallel, in the winter and the panel distribution, there is about 3 maybe 4 hours of good workable sun, of course, when it is not cloudy or snowing. So, my setup would be producing, maybe 10Amps. I think I need high amps in order to get the best charge on the batteries for the given time limit. I know there is charge time factor involved with charging the battery.
The electronics that I have connected, so far, are:
Raspberry Pi 3, has a DC-DC 5V regulator rated at about 2 Amps, using the GPIO pin connection.
Parallax Activity Board WX, power input can handle up to 26V.
2 Parallax Activity Board, power input needs 6-9V, can pick up using the USB connetion.
The Parallax Activity Board WX has a WX module plugged in which provides a WiFi capability. The board also has 4 ADC ports which I have connected to the flooded battery, 100AH battery, the panel array, and the two panels that I have facing East. I also created an .html file that I can view on a browser screen. This works because of the WX WiFi module. This program displays the battery voltage, array voltage, outside temp/humidity, and inside temp/humidity at my solar CC and such. Plus it gives me an idea of what the temp/humidity is in the room. The temp/humidity modules are dht22.
As soon as I get a good idea as to how much power my two batteries can provide, I will be adding more stuff to the system.
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Post by tattoo on Aug 17, 2019 21:50:01 GMT
As soon as I get a good idea as to how much power my two batteries can provide, I will be adding more stuff to the system. I say your there right now with those small batteries..... Anything else and you will be digging a hole.......
You need to remember you can ONLY use 50% of your flooded battery....
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Post by tattoo on Aug 17, 2019 21:59:01 GMT
there is about 3 maybe 4 hours of good workable sun, of course, It's all workable sun from dawn to dusk...... My batteries are at 12.7 3 hours before the sun ever gets over the trees and gets full direct sun to my panels...... In the summer I was lucky to get 2 and a 1/2 hours of direct sun because of the trees........ I now get another 1/2 hour or so now that I have added the 4 extra panels....
Your really over thinking this.......
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Post by bupkis on Aug 17, 2019 22:21:52 GMT
My latitude is 42.48*. Yes, I am trying to determine the solar usable power aspect of my setup. My reasoning for panels in parallel, in the winter and the panel distribution, there is about 3 maybe 4 hours of good workable sun, of course, when it is not cloudy or snowing. So, my setup would be producing, maybe 10Amps. I think I need high amps in order to get the best charge on the batteries for the given time limit. I know there is charge time factor involved with charging the battery. you do not understand what an mppt controller does! PWM controllers are forced to use parallel connected '12v' panels. Mppt controller can accept higher voltage input power and transform it to charge a 12v battery. Voltage drop is based on amps, so the benefit of series connected panels will reduce voltage drop using the same size wire. Take 400w input @ 17v x 23.5A. The controller transforms this to battery charging power or 400w Take 400w input @ 34v x 11.76A. The controller transforms this to battery charging power of 400w Take 400w input @ 68v x 5.88A. The controller transforms this to battery charging power of 400w ignoring eff, all three above charge the battery the same! If all three above use the same size wire, there is one configuration that has the smallest voltage drop (power loss). paralleling pairs of series panels is a good compromise unless the wire run is excessive. you can't use the 2 50w panels with that configuration. |
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Post by mediadogg on Aug 17, 2019 22:36:52 GMT
My latitude is 42.48*. Yes, I am trying to determine the solar usable power aspect of my setup. My reasoning for panels in parallel, in the winter and the panel distribution, there is about 3 maybe 4 hours of good workable sun, of course, when it is not cloudy or snowing. So, my setup would be producing, maybe 10Amps. I think I need high amps in order to get the best charge on the batteries for the given time limit. I know there is charge time factor involved with charging the battery. you do not understand what an mppt controller does! PWM controllers are forced to use parallel connected '12v' panels. Mppt controller can accept higher voltage input power and transform it to charge a 12v battery. Voltage drop is based on amps, so the benefit of series connected panels will reduce voltage drop using the same size wire. Take 400w input @ 17v x 23.5A. The controller transforms this to battery charging power or 400w Take 400w input @ 34v x 11.76A. The controller transforms this to battery charging power of 400w Take 400w input @ 68v x 5.88A. The controller transforms this to battery charging power of 400w ignoring eff, all three above charge the battery the same! If all three above use the same size wire, there is one configuration that has the smallest voltage drop (power loss). paralleling pairs of series panels is a good compromise unless the wire run is excessive. you can't use the 2 50w panels with that configuration. YES!!!! And by the way, raydas, this post has some info about handy DC-DC converters. |
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russ
Solar Advocate
Posts: 63
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Post by russ on Aug 18, 2019 6:48:26 GMT
The solarpaneltilt.com looks like the information that I was seeking. I guess I have to get better in phrasing my query on the internet. With that information, I can do away with the tedious job of wiring and data collection. Now I have to check all of the wires in my contraption setup. Some of the wires were getting hot to the touch, wires are not handling the current as I would of hoped. One thing about this solar stuff, some new problem always pops up, at least for the beginner. Which wires are getting hot to the touch? Solar panels to batteries? Charge controller to batteries? The wires connecting the batteries in parallel?
As Bupkis pointed out, you can reduce the wire size requirements between the solar panels and the charge controller if the solar panels are in series. Which is normally the longest wire run in a solar power system.
You should not be connecting mismatched batteries in parallel. A flooded car battery and a 100 AH deep cycle battery have different charging characteristics. They should be in separate systems.
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