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Post by sergeant101 on Jan 20, 2020 19:42:25 GMT
I am new to solar and trying to set up my battery bank to work as efficiently as possible with my new Renogy Rover 40.
The battery manufacturer's specs are as follows:
12v LEAD ACID MARINE BATTERY x4... wired in parallel 420ah total.
1. Bulk Charge (Time dependent on state of charge at beginning) i. Current limit to 10A ii. Voltage Limit to 14.4-14.8V2.
2. Equalization Charge / Absorption Charge (3-6 hours. Always perform this stage before a week or more of activity. Or every 3-5 cycles if using daily. More often if cycling deeper, less often for shallow cycles.) i. Charge constant current at 2-4 Amps ii. Max Voltage 15.8-16.0V3.
3. Float Charge (No time limit. Float not required if battery will be put into service shortly after charging. i. Voltage limits 12.9 to 13.5V
Question is.... are the standard settings for 'Flooded' batteries on the Rover 40 acceptable for these batteries? or do I have some setting changes to make? I do have the BT unit for my Rover and know I can make adjustments to suit these batteries... just want some clarification as to what settings specifically to set.
I realize this is a very novice question... but for the life of me I can't seem to find ANYTHING on the web to help me make the proper adjustments (if needed) and what/where to make them!!
Thank you in advance!!!
Sergeant101
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Post by bupkis on Jan 20, 2020 23:45:48 GMT
default charge profile from the owner's manual for flooded battery type (all temperature corrected) bulk charge to 14.6 v (boost voltage) hold 14.6v for 2 hrs (boost time) float charge 13.8 v equalize ever 30 days for 2 hrs, 14.8v Bulk charge current is determined by the sun and how much power your panels make, I doubt you'll ever see 20 amps! If you can get the BT to work I'd up boost voltage to manufacture spec, increase boost time to 3 hrs and up equalization voltage. I believe you will need to set battery type to "user' to do this, see the owner's manual for directions. The default setting should work well for awhile depending on your usage. heavy use and you'll want to up the voltages/time. Buy a battery hydrometer and learn how to use it, for flooded batts it is the only way to know if your batts are repetitively being under charged! www.chiefaircraft.com/freas-1.htmlBe nicer to your batteries, don't discharge them below 12.0 or 12.2v and recharge fully. If you do discharge them to 12.2 v or 50% that would be ~200 ah, it would take several days for them to fully recharge with 320w.
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Post by sergeant101 on Jan 21, 2020 1:31:41 GMT
Thank you for the reply bupkis... I appreciate it. My BT module works great... no issue at all for me. I know others have had issues... but mine works as it should. Below are the settings currently in the USER setup ... to the right is what I believe you are suggesting per manufacturers suggestions: Over Volt Disconnect 16.0 -> 16.0 Charge Limit Voltage 15.2 -> 15.8 Equalize Charge Volt 14.6 -> 15.6 Boost Charge Volt 14.4 -> 14.8 Float Charge Volt 13.8 -> 13.8 Boost Char Recovery 13.2 -> 13.2 Over Disc Recovery 12.5 -> 12.5 Low Voltage Alarm 12.0 -> 12.0 Over Discharge Volt 11.0 -> 11.0 Equalize Charge Time 60 -> 180 Boost Charge Time 120 -> 180 Equalize Charge Interv 30 -> 21 Does this make sense?? So... this solar setup is for a small 12x24 cabin I built on a 40 acre property we own in Maine. It is completely off-grid. I have been using it to run a small refrigerator, 7 LED lights (not ever on all together), my weather station (mostly for outside temp and wind readings), a small LED TV (25 watts when in use). My system was doing great keeping the refrigerator running and keeping a great charge (as far as the voltage was showing). However, I'm noticing that my voltage is dropping fast at night and I've completely turned off the fridge. My batteries go into FLOAT every day that there is sun! The reading on my inverter showed FULL charge this morning... so did the meter on my multi-meter ( www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07WZN1GY5/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o08_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1)... however, the voltage was showing 12.2v. I can't understand WHY both are showing full batteries... but the voltage is reading so damn low. So... I am figuring that my settings for these batteries are not correct to properly charge them, maintain them and have them discharge properly... IDK! I ordered the hydrometer you recommended. My batteries are only 2 months old... all bought brand new together. When fully charged... and after resting... each individually shows 12.8v. However, my good ol' Rover shows them at 85%. I realize this number means nothing now that I've read several posts regarding this. If my batteries were truly at 12.2v ... they shouldn't have gone into float today... but I was floating by noon. I have ZERO shade... panels get sun from the second it rises over the horizon until it sets. Again.... thank you for replying. If I screwed up my settings... please correct me!! I'll let you know if I see any changes after these settings are used for a bit. Sergeant101
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Post by tattoo on Jan 21, 2020 2:35:20 GMT
What does the hydrometer say they are at since they are flooded? If you checked they that is.............
If you haven't you should........
I just read that you ordered one so let us know that the reading is when you get it..........
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Post by tattoo on Jan 21, 2020 2:43:38 GMT
Are your batteries deep cycle or do they have cold cranking amps?
Also where are your batteries? You know outside in the cold or inside where it's warm?
If you didn't know it I have a 24X24 totally off grid cabin that has been running for 3+ years with no problems, Well other than me thinking it wasn't charging correctly........ But I figured out it was the angle of the Sun......... Wintertime.......
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Post by bupkis on Jan 21, 2020 2:53:12 GMT
great that you have good sun with out shade. Seems they need a good equalization.
In future years consider 4 x 6v golf car batteries that better suited for cycling vs marine deep cycle.
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Post by sergeant101 on Jan 21, 2020 3:04:56 GMT
Are your batteries deep cycle or do they have cold cranking amps? Also where are your batteries? You know outside in the cold or inside where it's warm? If you didn't know it I have a 24X24 totally off grid cabin that has been running for 3+ years with no problems, Well other than me thinking it wasn't charging correctly........ But I figured out it was the angle of the Sun......... Wintertime....... My batteries are deep cycle... they DO have a MCA rating of 800... but show ah as 105ah @20hr. I know others are using these same batteries with success... but I'm probably going to have to make some decisions to change them up. I need something reliable for when I am not there. I am out there every couple of days... but it snows A LOT here... and my panels do get covered. I am going to add a small wind turbine to my system this spring to assist. My battery box is inside... never colder than 50F inside. I keep the cabin heated all the time. On a sunny day the temp in the cabin rises to close to 70F.
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Post by sergeant101 on Jan 21, 2020 3:06:58 GMT
great that you have good sun with out shade. Seems they need a good equalization. In future years consider 4 x 6v golf car batteries that better suited for cycling vs marine deep cycle. Yes... I think that is the direction I'm going to have to move towards. Did my numbers up top in my last post look okay? I'm going back out there in the morning and will make those changes if they make sense. Thanks!
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Post by tattoo on Jan 21, 2020 13:32:47 GMT
Your numbers look just fine to me........ The only thing I did was to shorten the equalizing time in the winter.......... It hasn't effected my batteries any.... I extend the time in the spring.......
Have you thought about mounting the panels on the side of the cabin to help keep some of the snow off?
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Post by bupkis on Jan 21, 2020 13:59:36 GMT
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Post by tattoo on Jan 21, 2020 14:27:49 GMT
And they are also about half the weight................
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Post by sergeant101 on Jan 21, 2020 16:43:29 GMT
Your numbers look just fine to me........ The only thing I did was to shorten the equalizing time in the winter.......... It hasn't effected my batteries any.... I extend the time in the spring....... Have you thought about mounting the panels on the side of the cabin to help keep some of the snow off? I’m VERY happy with my solar rack... easy to adjust the tilt angle and pointed due south. I regretfully didn’t put rain-x on my panels... a friend did this and his clear snow easily. i updated all my settings... per usual... I’m floating. I’m going to do some solid discharge after it gets dark. Below are some pics of my cabin, battery box and panels. Still have much work to do... but helps clear my head on my days off!! 5/8 mile snowshoe trek back to our house. Maine is cold... but beautiful!! photos.app.goo.gl/rxrH1NgaQuXimiTY8
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Post by tattoo on Jan 21, 2020 20:33:32 GMT
I like your panel set up also........... And no trees to shade them..... That's even better...........
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Post by Admin on Jan 23, 2020 21:49:38 GMT
I am new to solar and trying to set up my battery bank to work as efficiently as possible with my new Renogy Rover 40. The battery manufacturer's specs are as follows: 12v LEAD ACID MARINE BATTERY x4... wired in parallel 420ah total. 1. Bulk Charge (Time dependent on state of charge at beginning) i. Current limit to 10A ii. Voltage Limit to 14.4-14.8V2. 2. Equalization Charge / Absorption Charge (3-6 hours. Always perform this stage before a week or more of activity. Or every 3-5 cycles if using daily. More often if cycling deeper, less often for shallow cycles.) i. Charge constant current at 2-4 Amps ii. Max Voltage 15.8-16.0V3. 3. Float Charge (No time limit. Float not required if battery will be put into service shortly after charging. i. Voltage limits 12.9 to 13.5V Question is.... are the standard settings for 'Flooded' batteries on the Rover 40 acceptable for these batteries? or do I have some setting changes to make? I do have the BT unit for my Rover and know I can make adjustments to suit these batteries... just want some clarification as to what settings specifically to set. I realize this is a very novice question... but for the life of me I can't seem to find ANYTHING on the web to help me make the proper adjustments (if needed) and what/where to make them!! Thank you in advance!!! Sergeant101 Normally for lead acid marine batteries, we would recommend using "Sealed" battery on the Rover 40. However, when reviewing the specs you provided from the battery manufacturer, some of the voltage ranges from the bulk, equalization, and float charge stages do not align with the values of the charging stages for sealed battery setting in the battery charging parameters table in the Rover manual. We would recommend using the "User" setting instead for these types of batteries. -Renogy Team
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Post by sergeant101 on Jan 24, 2020 21:08:23 GMT
Thank you all for the prompt responses. Changing my settings to the factory recommended settings will surely make a difference.
HOWEVER, based on a comment made by bupkis... it has finally clicked as to what my ACTUAL issue is overall. I simply do not have enough solar panels to provide adequate power/changing when they are under load during foul weather. In my novice mind I was thinking that as long as I had storage 'capacity' large enough... I could run my refrigerator/lights/tv etc... without issue. Which... in part is true... BUT... I need to have enough generated power coming off the solar panels to run those items... AND recharge my batteries to full capacity daily (or as quickly as possible)! At 320 watts (on the best of sunny days for the 4.5 hours of good sun)... even IF these panels actually operated at FULL potential... it would take several days to get them to top off my battery bank. Why did I not see this before?? A novice mistake I guess... but I'm on the road to fixing the issue.
I'm already shopping for 6v batteries based on bupkis' recommendation... and am going to add more panels to keep these batteries topped up!!
Thank you again for your responses... it has been appreciated!
Sergeant101
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