|
|
Post by Admin on Sept 14, 2018 20:12:15 GMT
Need your help on this one. Have discussed with Tech Support on several occasions and have not found a solution.
Basic Issue. RV Trailer with new 100W panel, Wanderer 30a Controller - 15 a in-line fuse on hot from PV and 30 A breaker on hot to battery. After several days of trouble shooting and controller replacement by Renogy (customer service and tech support have been great), I still have this issue. When I isolate my 2 12 v batteries on RV with typical parallel set up, meaning I disconnect the positive and negative leads leading to my RV electrical system, everything works great - so the Renogy system is fine. As soon as I connect my RV battery leads to the batteries, the PV light on my controller goes out and the current and voltage across the controller connector goes to near zero - there is very small voltage and current in the mamp range. Disconnect the trailer battery leads and boom - the system comes back to life. I have not begun to trouble shoot the RV system yet but everything works just fine in the RV, all lights, etc. and when I plug in the RV to shore power, the RV charges the batteries. SO - when trailer electrical leads are attached to the battery with the new controller and PV, it shuts down the flow of energy from the PV. Seems like the ground is lost when trailer is hooked into system. Any ideas would be greatly appreciated. Regards, Mark B. You have a ground problem on your trailer,most likely where ground is attached to frame of trailer ,this is 95 percent of the problems with electrical issues on trailers polarity? either the controller or the RV. Do you know where the RV is typically grounded to the frame. Could I run a (bypass) ground from the negative battery terminal to the frame and see if that solves the problem - or is that too easy? regarding polarity - I have checked it on the PV and the battery - it there a something easy to check where polarity could be reversed and it not be obvious? Thanks for responses. Mark B. it should be easy to follow the usual white neg 'ground' wire to the frame or a ground clamp on the frame. Jumper cables could be used to connect the batt neg to frame temporarily, don't know what good that would do. This is sure a head scratcher - checked ground (white wire) from battery to chassis and it is a good connection. Used jumper cables to check ground to chassis, with RV DC system disconnected, as soon as I hooked the jumper cable from battery negative to the chassis with just the solar panel positive and negative connected to the batteries, the PV system goes dead. Connecting the batteries to chassis ground is what shuts down the PV system. Checked positive and negative directly from the PV in direct sun and it shows 4.5 amps dc and 20.5 volts dc. Checked the resistance on a dark panel and it showed about 4 ohms but not sure I am checking that correctly. On multi-meter, Rx1= 4ohms. Just do not know where to go from here. as soon as I hooked the jumper cable from battery negative to the chassis with just the solar panel positive and negative connected to the batteries, the PV system goes dead. Your hooking the panels straight to the batteries? If that's what your doing that's your problem....... I'd be starting from scratch and just use one battery, disconnect the RV and brake away so nothing is connected to the one batt. Trace the + and - from the controller to the batt and connect the + to the batt + and the - to the batt -. Trace the + and - from the solar panel and connect the + to the PV+ input on the controller and the - to the PV- on the controller. Is there some sort of zamp connection ? Measure batt voltage and make sure it has time to rise in good sun. After it is confirmed that the sun is increasing the batt V attempt to connect the RV - to the batt -. I hopeI hooked everything up today. The PV light was blinking indicating ch I hooked everything up today charging. Left for 3 Hours Pv was steady green. An hour later no PV light. Any thoughts. |
|
