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Post by devnull on Oct 30, 2018 16:26:55 GMT
Point me specifically to what i need to by online/Amazon to make my panels hook up in parallel, with leads long enough etc. Or would I need to make some custom MC4 connections.
Also looking for the most streamlined option.
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Post by bupkis on Oct 30, 2018 17:03:36 GMT
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Post by devnull on Oct 30, 2018 17:33:10 GMT
I have a Renogy 40A Rover Li, Can I connect them all in series and have the MPPT controller handle the conversion to 12V to the batteries? Will the Rover handle the 18v + 18v + 18v + 18v? I guess thats 72volts.
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Post by bupkis on Oct 30, 2018 18:33:19 GMT
rover 40A can handle 100v input and 520w for 12v system.
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Post by Admin on Nov 2, 2018 17:19:29 GMT
I have a Renogy 40A Rover Li, Can I connect them all in series and have the MPPT controller handle the conversion to 12V to the batteries? Will the Rover handle the 18v + 18v + 18v + 18v? I guess thats 72volts. Hello, Yes you're able to connect them in series. The above that Bupkis indicated are the maximum capacities for the charge controller. -Renogy Team
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Post by swampmonster on Nov 5, 2018 19:32:59 GMT
I have a Renogy 40A Rover Li, Can I connect them all in series and have the MPPT controller handle the conversion to 12V to the batteries? Will the Rover handle the 18v + 18v + 18v + 18v? I guess thats 72volts. Hello, Yes you're able to connect them in series. The above that Bupkis indicated are the maximum capacities for the charge controller. -Renogy Team Yes, that is true that the controller will handle it, BUT that might not be the best configuration for your install. The MAJOR problem with connecting panels in series is SHADING, even partial shading of a single panel will greatly reduce the output of ALL panels....For a house or cabin, that can easily be prevented by cutting/trimming trees, but with an RV things are very often different. The only bennie of connecting the panels in series is that you greatly increase the voltage, but NOT the amperage....In an install with long wire runs or undersized wires, series will certainly help overcome voltage losses to the controllers.... But for RV types, you might be way far ahead configuring EVERYTHING for 12V, including batt bank, inverter, solar panels paralleled, and using as large and as short as possible wire runs. Something else very important I must mention, also. NOT ALL high quality MPPT controllers allow series connected panels. Mine especially demand my panels be nominal 12V and connected only in parallel to the controller....I overcome voltage losses by employing large gauge finely stranded conductors and very short wire runs. BUT, that is for just MY system, your install might require series.
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Post by swampmonster on Nov 6, 2018 4:21:17 GMT
I just got an email back today from Blue Sky, the maker of my superb solar charge controllers...
My controllers are MPPT, BUT Blue Sky insists that I only connect all panels in parallel @12v nominal.....
Mr., I TRUST the techs at Blue Sky....These guys designed the controllers and they stand behind them providing you follow their instructions.
Not all MPPT controllers are built the same...There are many that work best only when connected parallel to the panels, and some that tolerate series connections to make up for their low voltage regulating abilities by accepting series high voltages.
12V controllers must be VERY high quality and VERY sensitive and able to react to very minor changes unlike high voltage controllers....When in parallel, you benefit from much higher AMPERAGE, and it is AMPS that all batteries require....In series, AMPS stay the same as a single panel and voltage adds to itself....So with a cheap controller, series will often barely win out, except when partial shading occurs then all panels suffer.
They build the controller to deal with high voltages but neglect the hard work required to make a controller that operates at low voltages and truly delivers as much of it as possible carefully regulated and controlled....And trust me, Blue Sky does exactly that consistently.
So, my money is on Blue Sky in parallel and will remain there.
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Post by tattoo on Nov 6, 2018 13:32:31 GMT
I just got an email back today from Blue Sky, the maker of my superb solar charge controllers... My controllers are MPPT, BUT Blue Sky insists that I only connect all panels in parallel @12v nominal..... Mr., I TRUST the techs at Blue Sky....These guys designed the controllers and they stand behind them providing you follow their instructions. Not all MPPT controllers are built the same...There are many that work best only when connected parallel to the panels, and some that tolerate series connections to make up for their low voltage regulating abilities by accepting series high voltages. 12V controllers must be VERY high quality and VERY sensitive and able to react to very minor changes unlike high voltage controllers....When in parallel, you benefit from much higher AMPERAGE, and it is AMPS that all batteries require....In series, AMPS stay the same as a single panel and voltage adds to itself....So with a cheap controller, series will often barely win out, except when partial shading occurs then all panels suffer. They build the controller to deal with high voltages but neglect the hard work required to make a controller that operates at low voltages and truly delivers as much of it as possible carefully regulated and controlled....And trust me, Blue Sky does exactly that consistently. So, my money is on Blue Sky in parallel and will remain there. LOL I bet your money is on Blue sky... LOL
Everything that I have bought from and are using from Renogy are top notch products.... My entire Solar system is Renogy and I've been using it for 2+ years with no problems.....
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Post by bupkis on Nov 6, 2018 13:38:04 GMT
swampmonster, which specific controller do you have?
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Post by swampmonster on Nov 6, 2018 18:34:34 GMT
I have two of the Blue Sky 3000i controllers connected to 2 three Renogy Eclipse panel arrays in parallel, then the controllers are connected to my main solar battery bank in parallel, not as master/slave....This arrangement offers very high rate of charge, AND very reliable redundancy over master/slave configuration....My main solar bank powers a 2000 watt PSW inverter that contains shore/genset transfer switch and 4 stage programmable smart charger.
I have ordered a 3rd Blue Sky 3000i to control my 4 100 watt Renogy eclipse panels that will maintain my house batteries and small Samlex 600 watt PSW inverter, with back up charging performed by Iota 45 IQ4 converter charger, AND the upgraded Progressive Industries converter inside my OEM house panel....The Iota serves as a corded, portable converter/charger and as a back up for either large inverter charger or the Progressive converter.
So, in actuality, I have 3 separate solar systems, where the main system consists of combined 600 watts, and the house battery system contains 400 watts. I can instantly operate the main system as a single 300 watt system, or as a 600 watt system, with the house system totally separate.....REDUNDANCY! With a back up for the back up.
BTW, small PSW Samlex inveters are VERY high quality for their price.
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Post by bupkis on Nov 6, 2018 19:56:42 GMT
with a Voc limit of 40v I would not have one.
glad you are impressed with it!
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Post by tattoo on Nov 6, 2018 20:18:44 GMT
I have two of the Blue Sky 3000i controllers connected to 2 three Renogy Eclipse panel arrays in parallel, then the controllers are connected to my main solar battery bank in parallel, not as master/slave....This arrangement offers very high rate of charge, AND very reliable redundancy over master/slave configuration....My main solar bank powers a 2000 watt PSW inverter that contains shore/genset transfer switch and 4 stage programmable smart charger. I have ordered a 3rd Blue Sky 3000i to control my 4 100 watt Renogy eclipse panels that will maintain my house batteries and small Samlex 600 watt PSW inverter, with back up charging performed by Iota 45 IQ4 converter charger, AND the upgraded Progressive Industries converter inside my OEM house panel....The Iota serves as a corded, portable converter/charger and as a back up for either large inverter charger or the Progressive converter. So, in actuality, I have 3 separate solar systems, where the main system consists of combined 600 watts, and the house battery system contains 400 watts. I can instantly operate the main system as a single 300 watt system, or as a 600 watt system, with the house system totally separate.....REDUNDANCY! With a back up for the back up. BTW, small PSW Samlex inveters are VERY high quality for their price.
I don't understand why you would even want such a redundant system.... And like what was said above I wouldn't have a limited 40v VOC........
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Post by swampmonster on Nov 6, 2018 21:59:41 GMT
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Post by swampmonster on Nov 6, 2018 22:05:37 GMT
Why the redundancy? Because I am a retired nuc submarine sailor....Rode one the the Very North Pole and back, peed my name in the ice there.
On that particular months long run, if it wasn't the the redundancy of our systems, I would be fish food.
I plan on spending the majority of my time way far off alone in the boonies....For many weeks at a time....My rig will contain several redundant systems-back ups for the back ups....Submarine style
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Post by playersz28 on Nov 6, 2018 22:18:44 GMT
How big is the RV? Trailer or MH? With my experience with RV solar (3yrs at this point) it has been completely reliable, only the sun has failed on occasion. Now that I have replaced the Tracer with a Rover I'll carry the Tracer with me as a spare. With only 3 sections in the system I can handle failures easily. Panel fails... reconfigure the remaining ones. CC fails... swap it out. Battery fails... reconfigure. No matter where you go i the US you're never more than an hr drive from a place that you can get stuff to fix things.
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