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Post by davesun on Aug 26, 2018 17:21:04 GMT
Greetings all, Using the BT app, I am trying to set the "general parameters" for my batteries. The default setting is 200 Ah. I am not sure how to determine what setting I should input for my batteries. I have 2 of these batteries connected in parallel.
SPECIFICATIONS
Cold Cranking Amperage: 600 A
Cranking Amperage: 750 A
Negative Terminal Location: Top Left
Positive Terminal Location: Top Right
Reserve Capacity: 160 min
Terminal Type: Top Mount
Voltage: 12 VDC
(https://shop.advanceautoparts.com/p/autocraft-marine-battery-group-size-27m-600-cca-27dc-2/2080036-P)
Thanks, Dave
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Post by jsb2000 on Aug 26, 2018 18:00:50 GMT
Going down a bit on the page you referenced, one of the questions asked is the amp/hours rating of the battery. The answer given there was "115 Amp Hours."
So...assuming that info is correct, two of those batteries placed in parallel would give you 230 Amp Hours total (115x2=230). Aim for a setting as close to that on the app and you should be fine.
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Post by davesun on Aug 26, 2018 18:16:54 GMT
Thanks jsb, I should have looked further down that page.
Dave
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Post by jsb2000 on Aug 28, 2018 15:25:23 GMT
Thanks jsb, I should have looked further down that page. Dave Glad I could help out with a second pair of eyes. Also, be aware that the battery you indicated is NOT a TRUE deep cycle battery. That's a common mistake that people make when purchasing batteries for solar applications (and one that I admittedly made in the beginning too!). The giveaway is the " Cold Cranking Amperage" in the specifications. That means that the battery was designed, at least in part, as a starting battery. Which means that it does not have the thicker plates designed for TRUE deep cycle applications...like solar power ones. Consequently, they will not last as long and will not tolerate as many deep discharge events as the real deal. So, what should you be looking for instead? True deep cycle batteries that DON'T have any CCA rating. Things like golf cart batteries. They have thicker plates designed to run things at lower current for long periods of time between charges rather than provide a huge amount of current for a short period of time. I started out with marine batteries (Specifically, Diehard M-2 and Duracell Ultra SLI24MDC) like the one you listed. Ended up killing them in a few short years without really understanding why. Now I'm using true deep cycle batteries (Duracell SLIGC110, which are Trojan T-105 equivalents). Hope that helps you out. Regards, Joe |
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Post by Admin on Aug 28, 2018 15:46:18 GMT
Greetings all, Using the BT app, I am trying to set the "general parameters" for my batteries. The default setting is 200 Ah. I am not sure how to determine what setting I should input for my batteries. I have 2 of these batteries connected in parallel. SPECIFICATIONS Cold Cranking Amperage: 600 A Cranking Amperage: 750 A Negative Terminal Location: Top Left Positive Terminal Location: Top Right Reserve Capacity: 160 min Terminal Type: Top Mount Voltage: 12 VDC (https://shop.advanceautoparts.com/p/autocraft-marine-battery-group-size-27m-600-cca-27dc-2/2080036-P) Thanks, Dave Thanks jsb, I should have looked further down that page. Dave Glad I could help out with a second pair of eyes. Also, be aware that the battery you indicated is NOT a TRUE deep cycle battery. That's a common mistake that people make when purchasing batteries for solar applications (and one that I admittedly made in the beginning too!). The giveaway is the " Cold Cranking Amperage" in the specifications. That means that the battery was designed, at least in part, as a starting battery. Which means that it does not have the thicker plates designed for TRUE deep cycle applications...like solar power ones. Consequently, they will not last as long and will not tolerate as many deep discharge events as the real deal. So, what should you be looking for instead? True deep cycle batteries that DON'T have any CCA rating. Things like golf cart batteries. They have thicker plates designed to run things at lower current for long periods of time between charges rather than provide a huge amount of current for a short period of time. I started out with marine batteries (Specifically, Diehard M-2 and Duracell Ultra SLI24MDC) like the one you listed. Ended up killing them in a few short years without really understanding why. Now I'm using true deep cycle batteries (Duracell SLIGC110, which are Trojan T-105 equivalents). Hope that helps you out. Regards, Joe Dear davesun, What jsb2000 indicated is correct regarding starter vs deep cycle batteries. -Renogy Team |
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Post by tattoo on Aug 28, 2018 16:18:04 GMT
Yes cold cranking amps means nothing in solar..... Deep cycle and the highest ah reserve is what your looking for...
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Post by jag32266 on Sept 3, 2018 23:28:09 GMT
Just curious to know how I did with this as my choice? I'm using it on a teardrop style RV and was thinking of adding a 2nd battery to run my Air Conditioner off grid when we boondock. It operated fine on one battery until I hooked up the software app on my laptop and started to play around with settings etc. Now it won't operate without shutting down due to what? Overload? That's what makes me think I put incorrect settings into the software w/o knowing what I was doing. I'll work it out or try a reset I hope. Plan to RTFM before proceeding this time  Anyway here is the link for what I bought a year ago for $50 cheaper by the way. www.bargainshore.com/VMAX-SLR155-12-Volt-155Ah-AGM-Deep-Cycle-Hi-Performance-Battery_p_3153.html |
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